EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB WITH RITAMULSE SCG
10% Ritamulse SCG
10% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
20% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
56% oil - I used shea oil and rice bran oil
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
about 146 grams sugar for each 100 gram batch
*Note: We're using 2% fragrance oil because we're actually making 200 grams of product by adding the sugar, so the increased fragrance amount will actually make the product smell nice. If you're using essential oils, check your safe usage levels before adding to the scrub.*
Weigh all ingredients except the Vitamin E and fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45˚C. Add the fragrance oil and Vitamin E, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.
When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.
If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub and go as high as 200 grams of sugar. In this recipe, I used 146 grams of sugar per 100 grams of oils and butters, and I find that a nice level of scrubbiness. If you're using another exfoliant, I'm afraid you'll have to work out those weights on your own, but let us know how it works out!
Question: Do we need to use preservatives with sugar scrubs? You bet we do! Click here for a post on sugar scrubs and water activity! Which one to use? Click here to see all the posts on preservatives or click here for the preservative comparison chart. You want to use one that is suitable for anhydrous or oil based products - generally a paraben based preservative, which includes Phenonip and the Liquipar line. Optiphen might be good for anhydrous products - click here for that post - but I personally wouldn't trust it without some testing.
What do I think of this sugar scrub with Ritamulse SCG? OMG! WTF? LOL! I'm about to squee like a fourteen year old girl meeting One Direction! (Or more like an avid viewer of QI meeting Stephen Fry! Wow, I would embarrass myself with all the squeeing!)
Every time we make this, I mention to my best friend that I wish the sugar scrub would remain light and whippy rather than hardening by the next morning. This one stayed light and whippy! It's fluffy and moisturizing and feels really awesome! It felt lovely when I used it and it rinsed off well. I can still feel it on my skin the next morning, and I felt well moisturized all yesterday. In short, this is a great recipe made amazing by one small switch! (Which is tomorrow's topic!)
I really recommend using cocoa butter in this recipe as I worry that using a less stiff butter might lead to deflation. I plan to try this with golden shea butter this weekend - a stiffer feeling shea - and ultra refined - definitely a melty type of shea - to see if those changes will make a big difference. I'm going to have quite a few jars of sugar scrub around the house after this weekend!
As an aside, we fragranced one half with Sweet Meyer Lemon fragrance oil from Brambleberry and the other with Chocolate Raspberry Drizzle from Creations from Eden (which she doesn't carry any more. Sad face...) Wow, it smelled so great, I think Blondie wanted to eat my arm! (Which shows you that there might not be a virus or condition that makes humans want to eat each other, but there might be something that makes my dog want to have at least a few licks!) Oh, and we fragranced a tiny bit with Pina Colada. There's a tropical party in my shower! Awesome!
How do I think Ritamulse SCG might do in a solid sugar scrub bar like this one? I definitely wouldn't make the version with black cocoa butter because I fear it might be a little softer than we want! I think this version with mango butter will be just fine...why don't we make one this weekend with both and see what happens?!? (Also check out this recipe, formulating for your skin type: Anhydrous scrub bars for all skin types.)