If I were to make a sugar scrub for dry skin, which ingredients would I want to include? Occlusives, emollients, and humectants! But an emulsifier scrub is an anhydrous product, so it's hard to include things like glycerin or sodium lactate as they will come out of the product and make a mess. So what can we include?
Occlusive ingredients - Allantoin won't work in this product, so go with cocoa butter or dimethicone. Personally, I prefer cocoa butter in this product.
Emollient ingredients - This recipe is all about the emollients, and I like to use a combination of soybean or sunflower oil with olive oil. I like the heaviness olive oil brings to the recipe. You can use any oils you wish. This is a greasy feeling product, but the emulsifiers mean it will rinse off quite nicely. I don't like to use all cocoa butter in the product as it can be too stiff, so I tend to use 10% another butter. If you want it to feel a little less greasy, use mango butter. I like to use shea butter - the picture above is of yellow shea butter from Creations from Eden - and I feel mango butter feels a little too ungreasy. (In the black cocoa butter version, I use all black cocoa butter because it's softer than regular cocoa butter.)
Humectant ingredients - Olive oil behaves as a humectant, which is one of the reasons I use it. I don't like to include water soluble ingredients in my anhydrous products because it messes with the preservative and it can come out and float on top of the product. If you want to try using a humectant, don't go over 2% to 3%. It seems kind of pointless to use a humectant here, to be honest, because it's such a small amount. Choose olive oil and remember that the goal of this product is to trap water against your skin from your bath or shower.
EMULSIFIED SUGAR SCRUB FOR DRY SKIN
HEATED OIL PHASE
10% emulsifying wax or Polawax
10% cetyl alcohol
10% cocoa, sal, illipe or kokum butter
10% butter of choice
30% soy bean oil
26% olive oil
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil
1% preservative (I use Phenonip)
*Note: To turn this into a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like. Consider using salt (although this can sting broken skin), loofah, or seeds. I've tried this recipe with jojoba beads and really didn't like it. It wasn't scratchy enough for my tastes!
**Note: We're using 2% fragrance oil because we're actually making 200 grams of product by adding the sugar, so the increased fragrance amount will actually make the product smell nice. If you're using essential oils, check your safe usage levels before adding to the scrub.*
Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.
When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened, usually over night.
As a note, some people whip this in a Kitchenaid for hours to make it extra fluffy. I'm an impatient woman so I don't do that. But if you have a Kitchenaid mixer, try it with the whisk attachment to see how fluffy you can get it.