Sunday, April 8, 2012

Formulating for dry skin: What ingredients could we use in our products? (Part 2)

Yesterday we took a look at which occlusives, humectants, and emollients might work for dry skin (click here). Today we'll take a look some extracts, cosmeceuticals, and other ingredients we could include in dry skin products. (Please note that these aren't complete lists - just suggestions! And I really suggest that you click on the links for more information as I really can't replicate entire posts here!)

Banana extract might be a good inclusion in a dry skin product. Potassium is found in our stratum corneum in our natural moisturizing factor and it has has been found to reduce irritation to our skin when studied in Dead Sea Salts, so it could help reduce irritation to our skin.

Chamomile extract has been shown to reduce transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours and can increase exfoliation of our skin.

Comfrey root can help increase exfoliation of our skin. It contains asparagine - as does liquorice root extract -  an amino acid that offers moisturizing.

Ginseng root contains polysaccharides that can offer moisturizing and create a barrier on your skin, as does horsetail root extract.

Personally, I think all hydrolyzed proteins are simply awesome for dry skin - I include amino acids in here, too - but it seems like something like silk protein might be a better choice as it can penetrate into the skin. Having said that, the other proteins - like oat protein or Phytokeratin - are called film formers as they will create a layer on your skin to offer hydration.

I'm a big fan of the cationic polymers - ingredients like honeyquat, polyquat 7, polyquat 44, polyquat 10, and so on - for leave on and rinse off products as they are conditioning to skin and offer moisturizing without oils, so you can use them in cleansing products, toners, and other products that aren't emulsified. And honeyquat is also a humectant, so it's a 2-for-1 ingredient at up to 5% in the cool down phase!

Niacinamide has been shown to reduce transpepidermal water loss at as low as 2%.

Sea kelp bioferment can behave as an emollient and film former.

GHK-Cu might help increase the GAGs in our skin that bind water in the skin, which increases hydration.

Join me tomorrow as we start a week of formulating products for dry skin!

1 comment:

Julie said...

Im having an "Oh no!" moment. I was debating on which form of Silk to buy, and ended up going with the Tussah Silk fibers. I originally bought it to use in my CP soap, and didnt even think about using it in my lotions! Arrrgh, Im so upset now, I knew I should of went with the powder or liquid. That would be amazing in lotion! Is there any way to incorporate the fibers into lotions?? Please say yes! *fingers crossed*