Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Formulating for dry skin: Adapting the basic lotion recipe (version 2)

Yesterday we took a look at at adapting the basic lotion recipe for dry skin by including lots of humectants, oils suitable for dry skin, and occlusive ingredients. But that was only one way of creating this lotion - there are quite literally hundreds of variations you could make just switching out one ingredient for another, so what I'm showing you is only a small fraction of what is possible!

In this version, I'm going to make this more occlusive for a product that should be quite protective during the winter months. Again, I'm loading up on humectants - this time I'll use 2.5% sodium lactate, 2% glycerin, and 2% panthenol. I'm loading up on my occlusive ingredients quite a lot here with 0.5% allantoin (heated water phase), 5% cocoa butter (heated oil phase), and 2% dimethicone (cool down phase). I'm going to add 2% beeswax to the heated oil phase to increase the tenacity of the lotion and I think I'll use cetearyl alcohol in place of cetyl alcohol to give it more staying power. (I find cetearyl alcohol is a little waxy, which is a great quality for something more occlusive. If you don't have it, use cetyl alcohol instead.) I'm using wheat germ oil because it has loads of Vitamin E. If you don't have it, use rice bran oil instead. I'm adding IPM at 2% in the heated oil phase because it will reduce the feeling of greasiness in the product.

I thought I'd add a little water soluble calendula at 5% of the heated water phase to help with possible inflammation and soothing, and I think I'll add 0.5% powdered chamomile extract into the cool down phase instead of using the hydrosol. (You could include a number of different extracts here - I only have chamomile extract out of the list from this post, so that's why I'm using it.) I'm adding 10% lavender hydrosol because it's very nice for soothing skin, and I think I'll add the 10% aloe vera again. And I think I'll add some hydrolyzed protein - let's go with silk again at 2% in the heated water phase.

35% water
10% lavender hydrosol
10% aloe vera
2.5% sodium lactate
2% glycerin
5% water soluble calendula extract
0.5% allantoin
2% hydrolyzed silk protein

11% wheat germ or rice bran oil
2% beeswax
5% cocoa butter
2% IPM or IPP
3% cetearyl alcohol
6% Polawax

2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% chamomile extract
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Please use the basic lotion making instructions for this product. If you are using a different preservative, follow your suppliers' recommended amounts and process for adding to the product. To use a powdered extract, save a bit of water from your heated water phase - maybe 1% to 2%? - and when that water reaches 45˚C, add your powdered extract to it to dissolve, then add it to the cool down phase.

This should produce a lotion with a shelf life of about 6 months, if you use wheat germ oil, or 12 months, if you use rice bran oil. I use this as a hand and body lotion for winter months as it is quite occlusive and can feel heavy during the summer (but then again, I have normal to oily skin, so those of you with dry skin might welcome the heaviness!)

Here's a version of this recipe I made for my husband, who loves it! I find this to be a great hand and body lotion for the winter months. I really like this new version - version two, the recipe above - because it's slightly lighter and doesn't feel as heavy on my hands as the original. It makes a great body lotion, too!

Perhaps you're the type who likes a less greasy feeling lotion? In that case, join me tomorrow for more fun formulating with this basic lotion recipe to create a less greasy feeling version or the day after for a much less greasy feeling product!

If there are ingredients you don't have - like calendula extract - leave it out and increase the water amount by that percentage. If you want to learn more about formulating lotions and making changes, I encourage you to start at the beginning of the learning to formulate series and hit "newer post" at the bottom of each one to continue through the series!


Anonymous said...

I recently read in a forum that you can only use a certain amount of allantoin before it becomes an automatic OTC drug. Do you have any information on this? Is it only if you make a claim that it become an OTC drug? Was this person just crazy?

Thanks for any information you have.

Dawn said...

Susan, I noticed you are using glycerin and not hydrovance in the dry skin formulations. Is glycerin a better product for extremely dry skin? I love hydrovance but if there is an advantage to using glycerin with the dry skin issue, I'd like to formulate the most effective lotion. I apologize if this is redundant. You may have addressed this and I missed it. I hope not. Your blog is my "go to" after consulting other sources. I admire your commitment to researching so completely! Thanks for your help with this!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Dawn. I've written an answer to your question in this post. The short answer - Hydrovance causes pH drift, so I don't suggest it for that reason. Great question! Thanks for posing it!

Hi Anonymous. I've never heard this piece of information. The suggested usage is for up to 2%, and the reason for that is that over 2%, you end up with shards and that feels just awful! Making a claim makes it a drug - you're right! - so don't make a claim and you won't have a drug, you'll have a cosmetic. I don't know if they're crazy, but I'm not sure where they found this information as I've never stumbled upon it. This could be a rule in that person's home country - I'm in Canada, and I haven't heard of any rules to this effect in my country.

Goya & Fig said...

Hello Susan !

Following your request for feedback on your recipes, here is feedback on my version of your “BASIC LOTION FOR DRY SKIN, VERSION TWO”. I have a friend who has a desert instead of skin on her face. No cream is hydrating enough for her. This is of course a great challenge for a formulator, so I looked to your recipe for inspiration. Here is what I did:

I had to tweak it quite a bit, as I didn’t have all of your ingredients, and some of those I did have went in different phases.
In the HWP I used :
35% water
23.8% Sandalwood hydrosol
2 % glycerin
0.5% allantoin

I didn’t have lavender HS or Aloe so I just subbed in Sandalwood HS. I didn’t have sodium lactate so I added banana powder to the cool down phase (CDP). I added CO² Calendula, but in the CDP as well, along with my silk proteins (which my supplier says to use in the CDP, not heated phase).

In the HOP I used:
9% Evening Primrose
5% Squalane
1% Mimosa wax
3% Tucuma butter
4% Coco caprylate
2% Cetyl alcohol
6% Polawax

So I have a bit more oil in my recipe than you do, but I really wanted to add some squalane at a decent percentage (seeing as intense hydration was needed, but I also wanted something light that absorbs quickly), so I cut down a bit on the butter (I used Tucuma, as I find it’s scent a lot lighter than that of cocoa butter, which I don’t like). I used mimosa wax instead of beeswax, as I had some and the friend in question loves the stuff (not that I can really smell it, at 1%, but still, it was lying around not being used, so…). I don’t have IPM/IPP so I subbed in Coco caprylate, and used cetyl alcohol as I wanted more glide to the product.

In the CDP I used:
0,5% Liquid Germall +
5% Honeyquat
2% Silk proteins
0,2% CO² calendula
1% powdered banana

I don’t use dimethicone and had no panthenol, so I went with 5% honeyquat. I actually wanted to add some oat proteins to the HWP but my bottle has gone missing ( I fear it was accidentally thrown in the bin, yikes!), so I stuck with the original silk proteins from your recipe, only mine goes in the cool down phase (as per supplier’s instructions). Also added calendula, like you, but used CO², as that is what I had) in the CDP. Plus the 1% banana powder for added humectancy.

I made the cream using standard practices, with a mini hand-held blender (I only made 30ml to start, in case it was no good). I did heat and hold for 20 minutes and packaged it in a pot once cool, as it is quite thick! My skin not being overly dry, I found the cream to be too heavy (though we are in August. Perhaps in the middle of winter as a night cream it could work well for me). It is nice and glidy, despite the thickness. I put a titch too much calendula co², so the odor is a bit too grassy, though not unpleasant. What does my friend think of it? It works! Her skin stays hydrated all day, so she is super happy. She just doesn’t like the smell so much (of calendula). So I might add some néroli EO or other in a future batch.