Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Choosing a moisturizer recipe!

Click here for the original post from March 4, 2011...

The first step in making a moisturizer is to learn your skin type. Some of us can't stand any oils on our skin and some of us can slather on shea butter and still feel like we need a little more moisturizing. I recommend your first stop should be in the skin chemistry & types section of this blog. Figure out what your skin needs and then choose your ingredients accordingly.

The second thing is to decide on a recipe. My standard recipe is an 80% water recipe, but you can have a higher or lower water phase depending upon your needs. I find the 80% water recipe allows me to have a nice oil phase (or oil free phase, depending on the recipe) and a nice water phase. If you have very dry skin or want a night cream, you could go down to a 70% water recipe. (The recipe I'll be using as a starting point contains 88.5% water, but we're going to play with it quite a bit.)

When choosing your oil based ingredients, consult a list of comedogenic or acnegenic oils and butters (this seems like a good list). Using a non-comedogenic oil doesn't mean you won't break out: It just means it's less likely to clog your pores. Take these ratings with a grain of salt. As I mention in the post on comedogenicity, most of these ratings are based on rabbit ear tests, so their effect on human skin can be quite different. So you really need to figure out what works for you, and that will take time and patience. Yes, you're going to use a lot of ingredients - known by some as "wasting" our ingredients - as you try to figure out what your skin likes and what you can afford to make.

Here are a few recipes to consider as we learn to formulate moisturizers...

Swift's 80% water moisturizer (basic recipe)
Formulating moisturizers in general
Formulating moisturizers for dry skin
Formulating moisturizers for wrinkled skin
Formulating moisturizers for oily skin
Silicone based moisturizers
Facial moisturizer with hemp seed oil
Facial moisturizer with sea buckthorn oil
Facial moisturizer with sunflower oil
Oil free facial moisturizer
Another formulating moisturizer post with ideas for additives
Formulating a moisturizer with additives (part two)
Leave-in conditioners become moisturizers (moisturizers with BTMS-50)

As a note, there's no reason that a very light lotion can't be used as an eye cream! 

Click here for the next post I wrote last year about making moisturizers...
Click here for a post on using cosmeceuticals in a moisturizer for dry skin...

1 comment:

Artemis said...

I discovered this article the other day which is admittedly quite old (published in 1989), and the tests were done on rabbits ears so don't give a perfect indication of the effect on human skin, but if you scroll down a few pages it has the most extensive table I have ever seen of comedogenicity ratings. journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc1989/cc040n06/p00321-p00333.pdf Obviously it has its limitations, but I found it very helpful - you are probably knowledgeable enough not to need it but maybe you could add it as a link somewhere, as it might be useful for others!