Saturday, November 19, 2011

Experiments in the workshop: Facial cleanser with a ton of extracts - modified

I know I'm always going on about only switching one ingredient when you make a product, but when I'm in the workshop, I get a little ingredient happy and tend to change a whole lot of things at once! This is kinda what happened here with this somewhat unappealing looking facial cleanser. But seriously, try it out if you have oily skin - I'm loving this hideous abomination!

28% water
10% aloe vera
10% rosemary hydrosol
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% glycerin
2% Phytokeratin (or any other hydrolyzed protein)
0.5% polyquat 44 (or another cationic polymer)
15% LSB or other gentle surfactant of choice
10% cocamidopropyl betaine

0.5% grapeseed extract
2.5% liquid green tea extract (water soluble)
0.5% chamomile extract
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice (I'm using Germaben II here)

Weigh the heated phase of the product and heat and hold in your double boiler for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Remove from the heat and let cool to 45˚C to 50˚C, then add the cool down phase. To dissolve the powdered extracts, put them into a little container, like a shot glass, and add a little warm water - 3 to 5 grams or so - and stir until the mixture is uniform.

I love this facial wash! I've been using it for almost a year and I never get that tight feeling that comes from the surfactants not rinsing off, and my oily skin doesn't feel too stripped after using it.

So why these ingredients? I like to include aloe vera for its anti-inflammatory and soothing abilities. I'm using rosemary hydrosol because it's great for oily skin, and chamomile hydrosol for the anti-inflammatory properties, as well as the reduction in irritation and reduction in transepidermal water loss for up to 48 hours. I'm using grapeseed extract - which offers that weird brown-red colour - for the anti-oxidant properties, but I also like the resveratrol, which behaves as anti-inflammatory as well. Green tea extract is always a good choice for aging skin - and we all have aging skin - and I've chosen liquid green tea extract because I'm feeling like I have too many powders in the product and I am worried about getting precipitate on the bottom.

Powders are about solubility, so if we have too much powder, we can end up with that gunge on the bottom of the container, which is the precipitate or stuff that didn't dissolve. You can see it showing up on the bottom of toner two. It's not necessarily a bad thing - shake it up and you're good to go - but it doesn't look all that pretty, and it can clog up the tube or nozzle/pump of a dispenser. 

Glycerin is always my first choice as a humectant for a rinse off product for two reasons. I don't need a really fancy or expensive humectant if I'm just rinsing it off, and glycerin actually resists wash off better than something like sodium lactate or sodium PCA. (Click here for a list of humectants.) I like to add a hydrolyzed protein - this time I've chosen Phytokeratin - as it offers film forming and hygroscopic properties, and I'm adding a cationic polymer - in this case, polyquat 44 because it's new, but you can use any cationic polymer at the suggested rate. I like to include panthenol for its proven wound healing and hygroscopic abilities.

As for the surfactants, I'm using LSB (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate and Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) and cocamidopropyl betaine. I like the sulfosuccinates for my oily hair and skin because they're considered very mild, with good foaming and detergent properties. Sulfosuccinates are recommended for oily hair as they can remove oil and sebum gently without stripping hair too much, but all hair and skin types can use them without fear of harshness. I like SLSa because it has excellent foaming, bubbling, and lathering properties, as well as great cleaning properties. As for the cocamidopropyl betaine, I always include this surfactant as a secondary surfactant to increase mildness/reduce irritation and it can behave as a humectant, which is a great thing. (It can also help thicken our products, but that isn't an issue with the foamy bottles!)

So there you have this incredibly ugly coloured but pretty awesome facial cleanser! If you don't have a foamy bottle, feel free to increase the surfactants to 40% to 50% of the water phase, remove the same amount of water, and add some Crothix or salt at the end to thicken! (Click here and scroll down for a version I've thickened with Amaze XT.) If you want to alter this recipe, feel free to alter the surfactants (click here), the extracts (click here), or pretty much anything else.

Join me tomorrow for more fun with products!


Nedeia said...

Hi, Susan!

Great post, looking forward to get my foamer bottles and to try this facial wash!

I would like to ask you a few questions regarding thickening a (face/body) wash or a shampoo. I have read on your blog that I could use salt to do so. But I do not remember reading on how much salt do I have to add in order to achieve that.

I use a blend of the following surfactants for both face and hair:

1. Sodium cocoamphoacetate, Glycerin, Lauryl glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl glutamate, Sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate
2. Lauryl glucoside
3. Coco glucoside and Glyceryl oleate
4. Decyl glucoside
5. Babassuamidopropyl betaine

I find that the final product is usually quite runny. I tried adding sea gray salt (coarse) to them (this is the only salt I have , I use it for cooking), but I only added a few grains, without noticing any difference. How much salt should I add ? Is it a particular salt that is suitable ? Most of the salt has extra iodine in it, and I am trying to avoid it as much as I can (this salt I ma using is iodine free, but it may also contain extra minerals in it, being hand harvested from the sea ).

I really love the thick shampoos and face wash products - they make me use less and last longer, of course, so if you could point me to a rule of salt using , that would be great!!!

Million thanks,

Nancy Liedel said...

I've been bad about not commenting lately, but I read and download your stuff almost every day. Okay, your husband in the tub did not make it into my notes. Sorry. I'll make a bubble bar and put my husband in the tub. LOL!

I am working on your posts by date and I'm two years ago, so expect it done in 2012, near Yule/Christmas? Hanukkah. Whatever you celebrate, or don't. I have a gift for you this year too.

I did it! A bubble bar that dissolves on it's own and does not leave lumps in your tub for you to trip on. I used your method, but tweaked it. I'm final stage testing it and when it's all done, you get the formula!!! The minute you got frustrated, I went to work. I could not let the challenge pass. My Kitchenaide was stolen from my kitchen (forever) and moved to the formulary. You already have the incis. I, will share with a lot of people, because I owe them more than I can re-pay.

I'm going to have to put foamer bottles on my list now, cause I don't have enough crap. Why did I buy 5lbs of powdered honey? Why did that sound like a good idea? Can I use it in lotions?