Monday, May 2, 2011

Duplicating products: Ojon Revitalizing 2 Minute Hair Mask

Ingrid made the suggestion in this post that we try duplicating the Ojon Revitalizing 2 Minute Hair Mask. (If you want to make a suggestion for a product we could duplicate, please click here and leave a comment with the ingredient list and a link to the product.) So let's take a look at the ingredients...(And please click on the links if you want to know more about each ingredient!)

Water: Our solvent.

Cetearyl alcohol: A fatty alcohol that will help boost the substantivity of the cationic quaternary compound.

Behentrimonium chloride: Like behentrimonium methosulfate (Incroquat BTMS-50) but with chloride instead of methosulfate. This is our conditioning agent and emulsifier, and is essential for this product. We can moisturize our hair as much as we want, but without the conditioning agent we don't have a conditioner. We really need this ingredient as an emulsifier for all these oils!

Palm oil: A very thick oil, almost like a butter, that is very moisturizing for hair and skin.

Orbignya speciosa kernel oil or curua palm oil: Another type of palm tree from South America that produces an oil very similar "in colour and odour to palm kernel oil". It has a lower melting point than palm kernel oil, though.

Palm kernel oil: A very thick oil, almost like a butter, that is very moisturizing.

Safflower seed oil: Very similar to sunflower oil, it's high in linoleic acid, which is very moisturizing.

Meadowfoam seed oil: A very long shelf life oil (about 2 years) with tons of anti-oxidants and strange new fatty acids.

Sunflower seed oil: A light feeling oil with a 6 month to 1 year shelf life, it offers high levels of linoleic acid and Vitamin E.

Macadamia nut oil: A light to medium dry feeling oil with a 1 year shelf life that contains a ton of phytosterols.

Sesame oil: A medium feeling oil with a nice balance of linoleic and oleic acids. It has a shelf life of about a year.

Babassu oil: A dry feeling solid oil that melts at skin temperature. It has a shelf life of about 1 year.

Olive oil: A medium to heavy weight greasy feeling oil with a shelf life of about a year.

Unsaponifiables: Unsaponifiable matter is that matter which is present after an oil has been saponified or mixed with a base like sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. That which is left over includes lipids of natural origin - tocopherols, squalene, and phytosterols (which help soften our hair and reduce static charge). Unfortunately, there's no information about what unsaponifiables these might be and what they might contain, so there's nothing we can really do about this ingredient.

Jojoba seed oil: Not really an oil but a liquid wax, it can penetrate through the hair follicle to offer moisturizing. It has a shelf life of up to 2 years.

Avocado oil: A heavy weight oil with a shelf life of about a year. It's easily absorbed by the skin and hair, which is why you'll see it in hair care products - it softens and conditions, and protects against fly away hair.

Sweet almond oil: A light weight oil with a 6 month to 1 year shelf life. It contains a lot of oleic acid, which can be softening and moisturizing.

Passion fruit seed oil: Also known as maracuja oil, it's a light weight oil with a shelf life of about a year. It's high in linoleic acid (77%) and it is supposed to be rich in Vitamin C, calcium, phosphorus, and anti-oxidants (it would have to be to last a year with that much linoleic acid!). I've seen it written that it "encourages healthy hair growth and increased vitality". Nothing can make your hair grow, so I doubt that's accurate.

Coffee seed oil: Derived from coffee seeds, it has the strong smell of coffee and is reported to contain anti-oxidants (I couldn't find any really good information on this oil). It is suggested for use at 3% to 10%.

Murumuru butter: Very much like coconut oil - and it can be substituted for it - it contains a lot of lauric acid, which is a fantastic fatty acid for hair as it has a high affinity for proteins. Because of its low molecular weight and linear chain structure, it can actually penetrate the hair shaft.

Shea butter: A greasy feeling butter with a shelf life of two years.

Mango butter: A drier feeling butter with a shelf life of two years.

Rosemary leaf extract: Could be an essential oil, could be an anti-oxidant.

Hydrolyzed rice protein: A hydrolyzed protein like silk or oat, it will film form and offer moisturizing to our hair.

PEG-100 stearate: A high HLB emulsifier used in combination with a low HLB emulsifier to create an emulsification system.

Glyceryl stearate SE: A complete emulsifier, unlike glyceryl stearate (not SE).

Fragrance: Smells pretty!

Hydroxycitronellal: A synthetic Mugeut or lily of the valley fragrance. (Click here for more information.)

Magnesium nitrate: Used as a dessicant to keep water out of products. (Click here for more information.)

Methylchloroisothiaxolinone: Preservative with anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties.

Methylisothiazolinone: Preservative (read more about it here - very interesting studies!)

Okay, so what do we have here? We have what should be a very thick conditioner with tons of emollients, a cationic quaternary compound (our conditioner), and some emulsifiers. Are the emulsifiers necessary in this product? Can't we just use our BTMS-50 as an emulsifier? Yes, you can, depending upon how much you use.

Where do you think the 1% phase starts? I think it starts with the rosemary leaf extract, but it could be anywhere on the list below the hydroxycitronellal, because fragrances are generally at 1% or lower.

Which ingredients can we leave out or substitute? I'm thinking we don't really need the magesium nitrate because we're not going to be shipping this product to anyone anytime soon, and we can use our favourite preservatives suitable for emulsions (but not ones that don't play nice with cationic ingredients).  I'm not going to use the other emulsifiers because I'll include enough BTMS-50 for it to be a stable emulsion.

And what's with all the oils? I think we need at least 55% water (to keep it as an oil in water product so we can use BTMS-50 as the emulsifier), 1% fragrance, 0.5% preservative, 0.5% anti-oxidant, 8% BTMS-50, 4% cetearyl alcohol, and 2% hydrolyzed protein, we only have 17% left for oils and we have 19 of them!

Yes, I know they probably aren't using as much cetearyl alcohol and BTMS-50 as I'm using because they are using an emulsification system to help keep the product emulsified, but I think this is necessary to make the product an awesome conditioner as well as emulsified. You can reduce the BTMS-50 as low as 6% with 3% cetearyl alcohol to get another 3% oils (total of 20%) if you want the oils more than the conditioning. 

So which oils are essential in this product? If you want my honest opinion, I'd keep the palm oil because it is a good and inexpensive oil that will make the product very moisturizing. I'd keep the avocado and jojoba oils as they are good for hair, and I'd go with murumuru or coconut oil because we know they are proven to be great for our hair. The sunflower, safflower, macadamia nut, and sweet almond really don't offer much for our hair, but you could keep the olive oil or sesame seed oil because it has high levels of saponifiables. You could keep low levels of mango or shea butter to get the goodness of those butters, but use them at 1% to 2% each for thickening. And I think a little babassu might be a nice thing for the skin feel.

So we have palm or coconut oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or sesame seed oil, babassu oil, shea, and mango butters. That's five oils into 17%. I'd go with the coconut oil at 5%, and the others at 2% each.

I really don't think there's much point in adding something like 1% or 2% of an oil because for the most part you aren't getting enough to offer any goodness. There are some exceptions, but for the most part you want to use at least 5% of each oil to get any benefits. If you want to use two or three oils, go ahead.

So let's take a look at a possible recipe.

67% water
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice

8% Incroquat BTMS-50
4% cetearyl alcohol
5% coconut or palm oil
2% shea butter
2% mango butter
2% olive or sesame oil
2% avocado oil
2% jojoba oil
2% babassu oil

1% fragrance oil (I'd suggest lily of the valley for a similar fragrance)
0.5% preservative
0.5% ROE or Vitamin E (as an anti-oxidant)

Follow the basic lotion making instructions for this product.

As a note, if you find this product is too moisturizing for your hair, reduce the BTMS-50 to 4% and the cetearyl alcohol to 2% and up the water. (I think this would turn me into an oil slick, but some people need this kind of moisturizing in their hair!) Reduce the oils as you wish as well.

As a final note, this is not a recipe that would be suitable for Incroquat BTMS-25 as we need all the emulsifying we can get here. Sorry!

Join me tomorrow as we take a look at duplicating another product, one that I'm asking you, my wonderful readers, to figure out for yourself before I offer the answers!


Bajan Lily said...

Nooooooo why did you have to say that! (re: BTMS-25!)
You know us over here in Europe can't get BTMS-50! I was planning to double the amount ( like you suggested in a previous post), just cos it looks really interesting!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I'm so sorry to burst your bubble! You can try using BTMS-25 and see how it works, but it might not keep the emulsification stable.

I'll make you a deal - if you try it out and report back with all the details, I'll send you a copy of an e-book of your choice as a thank you for doing the research (I don't have BTMS-25, so I can't experiment with it!). What do you say? (If you could send the information by e-mail, with pictures, if possible, that would be great because then I can post it on the blog!)

Are you sure you can't get BTMS-50 in Europe! With all these suppliers (click for the list), are you sure you haven't got one of them that offers it?

Elizabeth said...

Susan, your blog is so cool! I'm a cosmetologist-in-training and a geek at heart, so I can't get enough of your posts. Awesome stuff.

Bajan Lily said...

Hey Susan, I accept your challenge!

I did check every one of those links... (and the non-English ones so far as I could get the pages translated) - the few that have any type of BTMS product seem to have BTMS25 only (e.g. no Butylene glycol although it does say 50%!

So just so I am sure - doubling the BTMS-25 in this particular recipe, would be as follows:

'increase by 50%', so we would move from 8% BTMS-50 to 12% BTMS-25, from this post it seems as though I also need to add some glycerin to compensate for the lack of butylene glycol - how about 1%?
If so - would I need to decrease the amount of water? (which might turn it into a water in oil instead of an oil in water emulsion) or would I simply reduce the oils(and therefore have to calculate the amount of BTMS all over again?

Mau said...

you can get btms 50 from elements in the UK.

Bajan Lily said...

Hi Mau,
Have you actually managed to buy this from them?
I've had their link in my suppliers list for almost 6 months - I have never been able to register to make the purchase and if you try searching for BTMS50 from their homepage - it never finds it - which led me to believe that this product is no longer in stock. had some BTMS-50 in October 2010 (I bought 50g - shortsighted I KNOW!!!) but they've never had it since :(

Mau said...

I have bought shea butter from them not BTMS 50, i am looking to get that next month for hair cream. Send them an email.

Ingrid said...

Hi Susan,

Thank you so much for my duplication of Ojon's hair mask! I will try this tomorrow. For anyone who might like to try this recipe, it is a rinse out conditioner, not a leave-in conditioner. You would certainly have a slicked back look if you left it in. And it does work after only 2 mintues left on your hair, but certainly feel free to leave it on longer if you have the time.
Hair is so soft and silky when dried, not weighed down, flyaway or greasy.
I do have a love affair with this hair mask.
Cheers, Ingrid

Bajan Lily said...

And thanks for the suggestion Ingrid, not only does it look like a cool conditioner but it'll give me a nice duplication challenge if I can get my percentages right with the BTMS substitution!

Bajan Lily said...

@Mau - Elements Bodycare definitely do not sell BTMS-50 (they've just confirmed).

Hi Susan, can you confirm my calculation?

Bajan Lily said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Anonymous said...

Hi Bajan Lily,
I know it's an old post and maybe you've already found a supplier in EU for BTMS-50.But if you haven't here's a link to one from the Netherlands- I have used it and it actually is a great conditioning ingredient.

Making Skincare said...

Gracefruit in the UK now sell BTMS-50

Matilda said...

Hi Susan,

I know this is an old post, but I would love to give this recipe a try.

When I add the percentages, I only get 88%. Would you please let me know how to get it to 100%?

Thanks for all your wonderful work.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Matilda. It doesn't really matter if you get to 100% in the end. Just change the % sign to grams and work from there. It'll work the way it is written.

Ann said...

% hydrolyzed protein of choice
I've just made this and absolutely LOVE it! I made a small batch which did just one go, but I will certainly be making this in a large batch. I made a few changes to work with the ingredients I had. I reduced the BTMS to 4% in case it was too heavy as my hair is fine. I didn't have cetearyl alcohol but I had cetyl so I used that at 2% (as I'm new to product making I don't know if this was a suitable substitute or not, or if I should order the cetearyl). I exchanged the olive and avocado oils for argan and camillia. Love this conditioner. Thanks so much Susan for a wonderful recipe.


Ann said...

I meant to say i used lupine as the % hydolized protein of choice.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ann! What do you think of the lupine protein? I just received some of it and it sounds pretty awesome!

Dev said...

Hi Susan,

Behetrimonium Chloride is more concentrated and doesn't come as a SE version. Usually it's about 70-80% active with the remaining being ethyl alcohol. It's also way cheaper than BTMS.