Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Duplicating products: Jurlique's Rose Hand Cream

Rebecca suggested in the duplicating post that we take a look at Jurlique's Rose Hand Cream. (If you'd like to make a suggestion for a possible product we could duplicate, click on the link and make a comment. Please ensure you have include an ingredient list and a link to the product!)

Before we continue though, I must advise you that the recipe for this product won't be appearing today. The whole point of the duplicating series of posts was to offer suggestions on formulating these products at home (which came out of the learning to formulate series), so I'm leaving a possible recipe for this product until May 8th to give you time to work on a few possibilities. Even if you don't want to make this product, think about how you could duplicate it. Feel free to use an HLB emulsifier or other emulsifier if you don't have the one in question. Think about your desired skin feel and if these ingredients will give you that end result. More on this at the end. Okay, on to the ingredients...

Aqua (Water): Our solvent.

Cetearyl Alcohol: A thickener, probably combined with the sodium cetearyl sulfate to create the emulsifier Lanette N.

Glycerin: Our humectant.

Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil: A light feeling oil with a lot of linoleic acid. Can be substituted easily with sunflower oil. A 6 to 12 month shelf life.

Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil: A light feeling oil with a lot of oleic acid.

Honey: Another humectant.

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate: Combined with cetearyl alcohol, this creates the emulsifier Lanette N (see above for links). As a secondary note, apparently it can be kind of irritating and is noted in literature specifically as Lanette N as being an allergen (click here, I hope it works from Google Books).

Chamomilla recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract: Chamomile is a great anti-inflammatory ingredient in our products. You could use the hydrosol or the powdered extract.

Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow) Root Extract: Contains a lot of polysaccharides, which offer moisturizing and film forming. You can find this in herb form or in an oil soluble extract from Brambleberry (and, I'm sure, at other retailers).

Calendula officinalis Flower Extract: Calendula extract does a great job of soothing by acting as an anti-inflammatory. It contains a lot of anti-oxidants and Vitamin E.

Rosa gallica Flower Extract: Rose extract is reported to be skin conditioning and astringent. This might be an extract, it might be a fragrance. It's main benefit is the anti-oxidizing effect.

Bellis perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract: It can help reduce hyperpigmentation of our skin and behaves as an anti-oxdiant and anti-inflammatory.

Viola odorata (Violet) Extract: This can behave as a soothing anti-inflammatory. It contains mucilage, which is a great film forming and soothing ingredient.

Echinacea purpurea Root Extract: I couldn't find a lot about this ingredient for skin care, but it is reported to be a skin conditioning and soothing ingredient.

Viola tricolor (Heartsease) Extract: The heartsease or wild pansy flower contains a ton of really nice flavonoids, including apigenin, kaempferol, and quercetin. (Click here for reference.) Quercetin contains a lot of anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, apigenin is a very powerful anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory that offers exfoliating properties, and kaempferol has strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It has been studied as a potential anti-microbial agent (click here for summary of study). Plus, it's very pretty, hence the picture!

Lecithin: Could be used as a co-emulsifier with the Lanette N. Lanette N may or may not be a complete self-emulsifier depending upon what information you read. Apparently it needs some kind of secondary emulsifier to keep it from separating, and lecithin could work in this capacity.

Macadamia ternifolia Seed Oil: Macadamia nut oil, a light, dry feeling oil with a 12 month shelf life. At this small an amount, I think it might be the vehicle for one of the extracts, perhaps the echinacea or carrot root extract?

Fragrance (Parfum)*: Makes it smell pretty!

Lactic Acid: A milk acid with a low pH (it's a carboxylic acid), it's considered an AHA and exfoliating. Use it at 1% to 2% to start. It could be a pH adjuster or for skin benefits.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein: A hydrolyzed protein, it offers film forming and moisturizing.

Alcohol: Probably part of one of the extracts as the solvent.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate: Found in Suttocide A, it's a broad spectrum preservative.

Daucus carota sativa (Carrot) Root Extract: High in Vitamins A and E, it contains a lot of beta carotene. It is generally found dissolved in another oil. Perhaps the macadamia nut oil, although I have seen it in sunflower and soy bean oil. (This is a link to carrot tissue oil, which could be the same thing. Root is a tissue!)

Aloe barbadensis Leaf Extract: Aloe vera, a very nice moisturizer when used at decent levels.

Citrus grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract: This is used as an anti-oxidant, not a preservative. (Please read the post entitled is grapefruit seed extract a preservative if you want to know why I'm saying this.)

Tocopherol (Vitamin E): Our anti-oxidant.

Citral*; Eugenol*; Geraniol*; Linalool*; Citronellol*.* From Natural Essential Oil (Rose - Rosa damascena)

Okay, so what kind of product do we have here? Where does the 1% category start? Are there ingredients that we could leave out or substitute with something else? If you don't have the ingredient at home, what could you use instead? What's in here that we could leave out or could we substitute something else for one or more of the ingredients? Do we want or need all of those various extracts (and if we do, can we actually purchase them from anywhere)? What else do you need to think about if you're duplicating a product? (Click here for a short summary!) If you aren't sure where to start, think about making this as a 70% water lotion

There are no right or wrong answers here! If you can make a recipe that works - that is, it contains water, preservative, emulsifier, and oils - then you're almost there! 

I've changed my mind. There will be a prize for this! You can comment or e-mail me your duplicate recipe for this product. I will put the entries in the order of when they are received and choose a recipe at random. If the lotion works - that is to say you have created a lotion that is well preserved and will stay emulsified that looks like it's close to this one - you have your choice of one of my three e-books (or an option for one of the two upcoming ones, which I hope to have out shortly). If you send me a recipe, you give me permission to put it on the blog - it remains your property, but you don't have any objections to it being posted if you win. And finally, please tell me what you want as your screen name!

You don't have to use the emulsifier in question, and you can substitute some ingredients if you don't have them or can't get them, but try to keep it as close to the original as possible.

You have until midnight Pacific time on May 10th to submit your recipe, and I'll announce the winner on May 11th. 

And sorry to Rebecca that you had to wait so long only to see a duplicate for your recipe only to wait another week! But this'll be a fun one to duplicate and didn't contain a million different ingredients. And you're already trying to duplicate it yourself! 

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