Saturday, May 7, 2011

Duplicating products: Garnier Nutritioniste Nutri-Pure Detoxifying Wet Cleansing Towelettes -- Oil Free

So back to Will's request that we try to duplicate the Garnier Nutritioniste Nutri-Pure Detoxifying Wet Cleansing Towelettes (I'm never typing that again! Okay, probably one more time for the name of the recipe!) Knowing what we've learned over the last few days about moist towelettes, let's see if we can come up with some kind of starter recipe for this product!

If you'd like to make a suggestion for a product we could try to duplicate, click here. Please include an accurate ingredient list and a link to the product. 

As always, click on the links to find out more about the ingredients. I can't write it all here - it'd be way too long!

Aqua (Water): Our solvent.

Glycerin: A humectant that will make our skin feel moisturized.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract: An extract that feels astringent on our skin, contains Vitamin C and E, and behaves as an anti-oxidant.

Panthenol: Vitamin B5 that acts as a moisturizer and humectant.

Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): An anti-oxidant that moisturizes and retards rancidity in our products.

Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract: I'm not sure if this is a hydrosol or an essential oil, but peppermint will offer a cooling feeling to any product. If it's the essential oil, don't use it at more than 1%!

Triethanolamine: pH adjuster and neutralizer for carbomer.

Carbomer: It makes gels. (Read more about making gels here.)

Cetearyl Alcohol: A thickener like cetyl alcohol but it feels a bit thicker and waxier.

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate: An amphoteric surfactant that will offer some very light cleansing to the product.

Glyceryl Stearate: A low HLB emulsifier (HLB 3.8) that can be used in conjunction with a high HLB emulsifier to create an emulsion.

PEG 100 Stearate: A high HLB emulsifier (HLB 18.8) that can be used in conjunction with a low HLB emulsifier to create an emulsion.

Xanthan Gum: Used at 0.1% to 0.3% to create gels. Add to the oil phase of our products or the cool down phase.

Sodium Chloride: Salt. Generally used to thicken things.

Tetrasodium EDTA: A chelating ingredient used at 0.02% to 0.2% to bind metals so our products won't go rancid so quickly.

Isopropyl Palmitate: Like IPM (isopropyl myristate), it's a dry feeling ester that can be added to our products to make them feel drier and powdery-ier. It's less comedogenic than IPM.

Myristyl Alcohol: Another fatty alcohol, like cetyl alcohol, that thickens our products and behaves as an emolllient.

Stearyl Alcohol: Another fatty alcohol, like cetyl alcohol, that thickens our products and behaves as an emollient.

Chlorhexidine Digluconate: A preservative with great anti-bacterial abilities (bactericidal and bacteriostatic). Pair with something with good fungus fighting abilities. (Read more about it here - wiki link - or here - data sheet.)

Methylparaben: A preservative with great fungus fighting abilities. Pair with something with good bacteria fighting abilities.

Perfume (Fragrance): Smells pretty!

Benzyl Salicylate: Fragrance fixative.

Limonene, Linalool: Components of essential oils used in fragrances.

FIL: I have no idea what this means, and it shows up in quite a few of their ingredient lists. Does anyone know what this means?

What kind of product do we have here? We have an oil in water lotion that is emulsified by using the HLB system (glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate) with an amphoteric surfactant used for cleansing. It has peppermint to make it feel cooler, and grapeseed extract and IPP for astringency. Although it has a lot of fatty alcohols in it, it is oil free because we don't see any actual oils in the product.

Where do you think the 1% category starts? Based on the various recipes we've seen for making moist towelettes, it seems the 1% category could start anywhere! I think we're into 1% when we see the Vitamin E as you wouldn't generally use it at more than 1% (especially in commercial products) and the peppermint essential oil shouldn't be used at more than 1% in a product like this. Other than the water and glycerin, it wouldn't surprise me if every single ingredient was in the 1% range because this is a very light, watery product so it will soak into the towelette.

We know we're making a very light lotion with our emulsifiers, alcohols, glycerin, panthenol, and so on and we'll make it more gel-like with the xanthan gum or carbomer. I know most people won't have carbomer just lying around the house, so we'll use the xanthan gum as our main thickener and gelling agent.

As for the fatty alcohols, I'm sure we don't have those lying around either, so if you want to replace them with an equal amount of cetyl alcohol, I'm sure we'll get a similar skin feel.

If you want to use Polawax or e-wax or another emulsifier here, please feel free to use it at the suggested rates. (I'd use it around 2% or so. Yes, I realize this is more than 25% of the oil phase, which is 4%, but I suggest this because 1% isn't going to emulsify much here.) I wouldn't use BTMS-50 or any other cationic emulsifier as we know that this could adsorb to the fabric!

Why didn't I use the HLB system for this product? 'Cause I didn't feel like it right now! I know, I know, it's a terrible answer, but I really just felt it was easier to use a regular emulsifier for this product. 

84.3% water
3% glycerin
2% disodium cocoamphodiacetate or cocamidopropyl betaine

0.2% xanthan gum
1% IPP or IPM
3% cetyl or cetearyl alcohol
4% Polawax or e-wax

0.5% grapeseed extract (optional)
0.5% panthenol
0.5% Vitamin E
0.5% peppermint essential oil
0.5% preservative

Use the basic lotion making instructions for this product.

Although I think the grapeseed extract will do something wonderful for this product, I worry about the colour! In water or a lotion, it turns a lovely reddish-brown that reminds me a little of blood (look to the left). I don't know if you want that in a product on a cloth! If you want something astringent  that won't ruin the look of the product, consider using something like orange hydrosol or witch hazel instead in place of some of the water. I love this extract, but imagine this on a cleansing towelette! EEK!

I have to admit, every time I hear the name Garnier, I think of this sketch from Mitchell & Webb. Hilarious!


Will said...

I made this last evening, using tea tree oil for the peppermint which I didn't have, and left out the "blood product" aka grape extract.

Watery, barely perceptible soapiness, and refreshing -- perfect for a wipe.

Now the trauma will be finding suitable carriers/wipes. I'm not giving up my search for a non-woven, disposable wipe.

Next time I make this I might try hydrovance for the glycerin? Think that might be a good or bad change?

I was reading about Chlorhexidine Digluconate and was surprised to see it's not recommended for use near the eyes. Strange that it's part of a facial wipe, huh?

Thanks again,


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Will! I'm glad this is working out for you. I know the non-disposable thing is a pain in the bum, but I trust you will find something eventually - and please share it with us!

As for the Hydrovance, you can use any humectant you wish in place of the glycerin (consider sodium lactate and sodium PCA as well), but there is some concern that Hydrovance can cause pH drift over time. I'd go with 2% of any of these other humectants and see how you like it in place of the glycerin!

Let us know how it turns out, as I'm dying to hear more about your results!

Unknown said...

Will, did you ever find a suitable wipe?? I am trying to produce wipes as well and am having a tough time....

Anonymous said...

Regarding what to use as a wipe, I use a 4 X 4 Safe Gauze non-woven disposal wipe which I purchased from a medical office. The company that manufactures the gauze is Medicom. I have tried several times to reach someone at this company but over the years no one has ever called me back. There are 200 single use non-woven tissue type sponges that come in the package. I usually pay $15.00 for 200. I have been using them for years to wash my face with because they are extremely gentle. I am sure they would be excellent for making baby butt wipes, makeup remover wipes or just plain hand wipes.
Beth D.