Saturday, May 21, 2011

Duplicating products: Curl Junkie Daily Fix Cleansing Conditioner (part three)

So we've taken a look at what makes a cleansing conditioner cleansing, the ingredient list for the Curl Junkie product, and a possible duplicate. Now let's take a look at some other ways we could duplicate this product!

I suggested this recipe as a possible duplication yesterday...

0.25% cationic guar
0.25% hydrolyzed oat flour
80.5% water (replace with hydrosols of choice)
2% cocamidopropyl betaine
2% PEG-7 olivate

7% BTMS-50
3.5% cetearyl alcohol
2% cetrimonium chloride

0.5% powdered extract of choice
0.5% powdered extract of choice
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil

...but I'd like to suggest a few alternatives.

If you don't have or like cationic guar or hydrolyzed oat flour, may I suggest using up to 2% cationic polymers for the cationic guar (polyquat 10 or polyquat 44 are the most easily removed from our hair, and both can be used at up to 0.5% in our products), and using one of the hydrolyzed proteins at up to 2% in the heated water phase. If you increase one of your ingredients, remove the same amount from the water in the heated water phase. (Honeyquat's a nice ingredient at 3% in the cool down phase as it offers conditioning and behaves as a humectant!)

If you want to use this as a regular conditioner, not a cleansing conditioner, the one change I'd suggest would be to remove the cocamidopropyl betaine and increase your water by 2%. (Although I really don't think you'd notice 2% cocamidopropyl betaine in this product all that much, why add something that isn't necessary?)

If you want to use cetrimonium bromide, feel free to substitute it for the BTMS-25 or BTMS-50 in this product. You could also add it about 3% or so to the product and remove 3% from the water amount.

If you don't have PEG-7 olivate, you can substitute another water soluble oil - water soluble shea is very nice, as is water soluble aloe oil, but any one will do - or you could just add some oils you like. The BTMS-50 will emulsify any oils you add to this product, so you could use something like sunflower oil, avocado oil, sea buckthorn oil, or even coconut oil (which should be our first choice for hair care products as it's inexpensive and very effective).

If you want some humectant or film formers in the product, add a hydrosol, witch hazel, or aloe vera to the mix. Start at 10% (remove 10% from the water amount) and see if you like it. I'm actually surprised there aren't any humectants in this product as most of the people I've met who co-wash or go no-poo have dry hair, and dry hair loves it some humectants! 3% glycerin, 10% aloe vera, propylene glycol or another glycol, silk protein, and panthenol are all great ingredients for dry hair to increase the moisturization levels of your hair!

So there are a few ideas for how to modify this conditioner - or, indeed, any conditioner! There isn't anything special about this conditioner in its abilities to clean your hair and there isn't a specific reason I chose this one to focus on for a few days, just that it seemed like it was basic enough to put up with a little tweaking!

When you're duplicating your products, keep in mind which ingredients can substitute for other ones. If you don't have hydrolyzed oat flour, use hydrolyzed oat protein. If you don't have that, consider another hydrolyzed protein like wheat, soy, silk, and corn as an option. You aren't limited to those ingredients in the recipe or on the label. And when you learn which ingredients do what, you can go wild with substitutions!

Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun!


Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for clarifying the possible percentages of the cetyl and cetearyl alcohols in the cleaning conditioner recipe. I have a similar question about steryl alcohol, if it's used as an emollient of thickener for a lotion/conditioner, if you are using natramulse as the emulsifier and a little behentrimonium chloride, and I want to make a thinner lotion.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi there. Why do you want to use natramulse as an emulsifier in a conditioner? It's a non-ionic emulsifier and we want a cationic one in a conditioner! And if you read this post, you'll see a few ideas for making it a thinner product!

Anonymous said...

Could you duplicate the Curl Junkie Curl Rehab and the Jessicurl Deep Conditioning treatment? Here are the ingredients in the Jessicurl DCT: Water (Aqua) infused with Equisetum Maximum Lam (Horsetail), Mentha Piperita (Peppermint), Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary), Laurus Nobilis (Bay Leaf), Ocimum Basilicum (Basil), Arctium Lappa (Burdock Root), Althaea Officinalis (Marshmallow Root), Origanum Vulgare (Oregano), Cymbopogon Flexuosus (Lemongrass), Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme), Salvia Officinalis (Sage) and Urtica Dioica (Nettle); Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Soy Lecithin, Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

No. I don't duplicate products any more. I hope the duplicating series offered you enough information to duplicate your own products! This would be an easy product to duplicate, though, even if you're just starting out! Find a conditioner recipe you like and add those extracts to it.

seventh77 said...

Hi Susan,

I'm a little confused. What is the difference between hydrolyzed oat flour and hydrolyzed oat protein? I've been trying to find out, but I keep getting mixed information. Many places state that oat flour is just ground up oats, so wouldn't that mean hydrolyzed oat flour is the same as hydrolyzed oat protein? What am I missing?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi seventh77: This is what I found out and wrote about in part one of this duplication...

Hydrolyzed Oat Flour: A water soluble starch that can be found at retailers under a few different names and it's used as a humectant, moisturizer, kinda protein, film former, and thickener. It's used at 0.25% to 5%. You would sprinkle the oat flour in cold water and wait 15 minutes for it to fully hydrate. Add the other water soluble ingredients (the heated water phase), heat to our normal heat and hold temperature (around 70˚C), then make our product as normal. Given where this is on the ingredient list, I'm thinking it'll be no more than 1% in this product, and probably closer to 0.25%. (If you can't find this, then I suggest using hydrolyzed oat protein in the heated water phase.)

Here's a link to hydrolysis on Wikipedia. I think in this case, the hydrolysis has occurred to break the oat flour into smaller components, the way it is done with the sugars.

And here's a link to a product that is probably it at the Herbarie. Unfortunately, she tends to create her own product names, so I'm not sure under which name it is manufactured, but the INCI is hydrolyzed oat flour.

Okay, weird, I have some of this and have never used it. It's on my list to try this out this week!