Monday, May 9, 2011

Duplicating products: Burt's Bees Lip Shimmer

Pam suggested we take a look at Burt's Bees Lip Shimmer as a possible duplication.

Here's the ingredient list:
Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, cera alba (beeswax, cire d'abeille), candelilla cera (euphorbia cerifera, cire de candelilla) wax, mentha piperita (peppermint) oil, lanolin, theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, cera carnauba (copernicia cerifera, cire de carnauba) wax, tocopherol, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, glycine soja (soybean) oil, canola oil (huile de colza), limonene, May contain+/-: CI 77491/77492/77499 (iron oxides), mica, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), CI 75470 (carmine), CI 778161(tin oxide)

I can break this down very quickly as follows (if you click on the links at the bottom of the page, you'll see reasons for using all these ingredients!)

  • Castor oil adds a lot of shine to a lip balm, so that's always a good addition for a lip balm. 
  • Sunflower oil has tons of linoleic acid, which is great for repairing skin's barrier mechanisms. 
  • Lanolin contains a lot of sterols, which are great for repairing skin's barrier mechanisms. 
  • Beeswax is essential to make it stiff, and you can use candelilla wax or carnauba wax for that purpose. 
  • Peppermint oil will give you a taste and a tingle of peppermint. 
  • The butters are in to make the product stiffer, and melt on contact with your skin. 
  • The oils are in there to create an occlusive layer. 
  • The tocopherol and rosemary leaf extract are there to retard the rancidity of the oils in the product. 
  • And the colours are in there to make the product coloured. 

There's a great basic lip balm recipe from Majestic Mountain Sage that I suggest to everyone wanting to start making lip balms...

20% Beeswax
25% solid at room temperature oil (Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Shea Butter, Lanolin, etc.)
15% brittle at room temperature oil (Regular Cocoa Butter, Palm Kernel Oil, etc.)
40% liquid oil at room temperature (Sweet Almond Oil, Olive Oil, Avocado Oil, etc.)

If you're using a more brittle wax like candelilla or carnauba wax, you'll want to start at 10% wax because it can make it very hard!

Here are links to various posts on my site for making lip balms, lip shimmers, and lip sticks, as well as information on various ingredients!

Because a lip balm is such an individual thing, I'll refer you to the MMS recipe and my posts on how to make your starting recipe, then you can tweak it to get the same skin feel!

Join me tomorrow for more duplicating fun!


Petra said...

Susan, thanks for the links to all the lip shimmer posts! One thing I don't think I saw covered was how to keep the color consistent. I made some shimmers a while back. I put them into containers just as the mix was starting to cool off. I tried one tube and thought it ended up with not enough color, so I emptied the tubes to add more and noticed that other tubes had plenty of color. I was using micas, oxides, and TD. My thought was that maybe the color was a bit heavier and was settling out as it was cooling and that later pours were possibly the recipients of more colorants. Any suggestions on how to make sure the color stays consistent from one tube to the next and from top to bottom of the tube?

Monica Dowen said...

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Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Monica! How exciting! This is my first "get a life" type comment. I haven't had one of those in years! I used to get them all the time with my previous website, but this is the first one for what is quite clearly a very useful site filled with useful information for those of us who like making our own products!

If you'd like something useful, click here for a fantastic video!

Will, Cleveland OH said...

OMG ROTFLMAO at the video!

Wicked awesome.


Anonymous said...

Great post, Susan.

I have a question for you. I am working to modify the basic lip balm recipe you suggest.

Say I wanted to make a basic lip balm and want to add Vitamin E (to stave off rancidity) and essential oil (such as peppermint) for a tingly minty feeling, what would the appropriate quantities be? I was thinking 0.5% of each to the total recipe (and reducing other ingredients by the 1% to add up to 100%).

Too much essential oil? Too little vitamin E?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Belle. I'd go with 0.5% Vitamin E and you'll have to play with the peppermint to see what you like. I made one with 1% peppermint and I really liked it, but my best friend wanted more! So that'll be an experiment.

My suggestion - make the lip balm with 0.5% peppermint, then put some on a popsicle stick and try it out on your lips. Increase if necessary!

Let us know how it turns out!


Omg hahaha I know this is an old post but had to comment and say I love the video!!!! I can't believe someone would say that this site is useless. This is the best site I've ever come across!!!!!