Thursday, April 21, 2011

Duplicating products: Korres Milk Proteins 3 in 1 cleansing emulsion

Jen W. suggested this product for duplication in this thread (which is where you can go to add your suggested product): Korres Milk Proteins 3 in 1 cleansing emulsion

Ingredient list: Aqua (Water), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Squalane, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Macadamia Ternifolia Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether, Pentylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Olivoyl Hydrolysed Wheat Protein, Sucrose Stearate, Lactose, Whey Protein, Arginine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isohexadecane, Methylparaben, PEG- 8, Polysorbate-80, Propylparaben, Tocopherol, Sodium Acrylate/ Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Gluconate.

All right, let's break it down!

Water: Our solvent.

Sunflower oil: A light feeling oil with a shelf life of 6 to 12 months filled with linoleic acid.

Squalane: A thicker feeling oil that is found in our skin.

Safflower oil: Much like sunflower oil, it's a light feeling oil filled with linoleic acid.

Glycerin: Our humectant. It will draw water from the atmosphere to our skin and make it feel more moisturized.

Macadamia nut oil: A light feeling dryish oil with a shelf life of about 12 months filled with oleic acid and palmitoleic acid.

Dicaprylyl Ether: (aka dioctyl ether or ethylhexyl-2-ethyl-hexylether) It's a high spreading, dry feeling emollient that leaves a silky feeling.

Pentylene Glycol: Another humectant, like propylene glycol or hexylene glycol but with 5 carbon atoms.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate: A dry emollient that provides a protective film on our skin that has excellent spreadability and a velvety after feel. It is considered a silicone alternative.

Olivoyl Hydrolysed Wheat Protein: With the cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl oleate, and glyceryl stearate, this makes up the emulsifier called Olivoil glutinate E (scroll down to page 5) from Kalichem Italia. It is used at 3% to 10% as the emulsifier (so in the heated oil phase) and has a 1 year shelf life.

Sucrose Stearate: An emulsifier derived from combining sugar and stearic acid. (Click here for a list of data sheets from various companies about this ingredient).

Lactose: Derived from milk, it's a skin conditioning agent and humectant.

Whey Protein: It behaves as a skin and hair conditioning agent.

Arginine: An alkaline amino acid used in our products as an anti-oxidant and possible wound healer.

Ascorbyl Palmitate and Ascorbic Acid: Vitamin C. Ascorbyl palmitate is a more stable version. Could be used as an anti-oxidant, could be used for the benefits to our skin.

Benzyl Alcohol: A bacteriostatic preservative (click here for the Wiki entry or here for the CosmeticsInfo entry). It can be safely used at up to 5%.

Cetearyl Alcohol: Part of the emulsifier, it's a longer chain fatty alcohol than cetyl alcohol that offers emolliency and thickening.

Citric Acid: Chelating, anti-oxidizing, and pH adjust ingredient.

Glyceryl Oleate and Glyceryl Stearate: Part of our emulsifier.

Isohexadecane: A form of mineral oil.

Methylparaben: Preservative.

PEG- 8: Not enough information to figure out which PEG-8 this is.

Polysorbate-80: Dispersant and solubilizer.

Propylparaben: Preservative.

Tocopherol: Vitamin E, our anti-oxidant.

Sodium Acrylate/ Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: Found at Making Cosmetics as Gelmaker EMU (which also contains polysorbate 80 and isohexadecane, which we see in this ingredient list), it's a thickener that we can add at 0.5% to 2% in the heated water or oil phases or when we combine the two. It makes gels. Here's a data sheet on Creagel EZ if you're interested in learning more!

Sodium Gluconate: A chelating ingredient (click here for more information on the ingredient).

What kind of product do we have here? It's an oil in water emulsified lotion used as a cleanser (which is in the name!)

Where do you think the 1% category starts? It's hard to say. I would say citric acid on down is definitely in the 1% category, but it could be higher with the proteins or even the wheat protein that is part of the emulsifier. I'm going to go with the idea that the 1% list starts with the wheat protein for the purposes of trying to duplicate this recipe.

I'm not sure of the viscosity of this product, but I've seen a picture so I know it's about a 70% to 80% water recipe. I'll go with the 80% water recipe I use for moisturizers and hope I'm close!

I don't have any lactose or whey protein, so I'll substitute another protein for this (I like oat protein, but you can use any you like). You can use any kind you want or find the lactose somewhere (sorry, not sure where). I don't have arginine either, so I'll have to leave that out, too.

I'm going to be using sunflower, squalane, and macadamia nut (I don't have any safflower) and I'm using dimethicone at 1% for the dicaprylyl carbonate and 1% cetearyl ethylhexanoate for the dicaprylyl ether. If you don't have the ester, increase the macadamia nut oil by 1% (it's also a dry oil) and increase the squalane by 1% if you don't want to use the silicone. I don't have access to the emulsifier in the product, so I'll use Polawax at 4% of my oil phase (my oil phase will be 10%, but I find anything lower than 4% can be unstable, so that's the amount I'll use even though it's not 25% of the oil phase). I'm adding 1% cetyl alcohol here (or cetearyl alcohol) to thicken it slightly, but not too much. (I'm using cetyl alcohol instead of cetearyl alcohol as I find that kind of waxy feeling. Feel free to use either.)

I'll use 3% glycerin and 1% propylene glycol as I don't have hexylene glycol. (If you don't want to use propylene glycol, increase the glycerin to 4%). I'll add the 0.5% Gelmaker EMU to the heated water phase. If you don't have the Gelmaker, leave it out. It will make the lotion feel less cushiony (yes, that's an actual description) but it won't ruin the product.

Finally, I'll include 0.5% Vitamin E and 0.5% Vitamin C (in a stable form) in the cool down phase.

78% water
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% glycerin
1% propylene glycol

4% emulsifier
1% cetyl or cetearyl alcohol
3% sunflower oil
2% squalane
2% macadamia nut oil
1% cetearyl ethylhexanoate

0.5% Gelmaker EMU

0.5% Vitamin E
0.5% stable Vitamin C (leave out if you don't have it)
0.5% preservative (I use liquid Germall Plus)
1% dimethicone

Weigh the heated water phase ingredients in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. Weight the heated oil phase ingredients in a heatproof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C. When the ingredients have heated and held, remove the heated oil phase from the double boiler and add the Gelmaker and mix well. Add the heated water phase to the heated oil phase and mix well. When the mixture reaches 45˚C to 50˚C, add the cool down phase ingredients and mix well. Allow to cool to room temperature and bottle!

If you want this to be a little thicker, here are two posts on the topic: Part one and part two.

Join me tomorrow as we start a short aside on HLB emulsifiers, what they are and how to make our own before we return to a few more duplicating posts!


K Russell said...

Could you use another thickener in place of gelmaker emu? Xanthan gum or?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

You can leave it out or us something else. I don't like xanthan gum, so I can't recommend it, but you could use another polymer like Ultrez 21 or something similar.