Friday, April 8, 2011
Duplicating products: Carol's Daughter Hair Milk
Ingredients: Water, Soy Bean Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Vegetable Emulsifying Wax, Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter, Apricot Kernel Oil, Beeswax, Essential Oil Or Lemongrass, Fragrance, Jojoba Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Vitamin C, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Bicarbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Tetradibutyl Pentaerithrityl, Hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
Let's take a look at the ingredients. (As a note, if there's a link to the ingredient, you can click on that for more detail as I can't replicate everything I've written about every oil in this post! It'd be 40 pages long!)
Water - Our solvent.
Soy bean oil - A great emollient filled with linoleic acid, Vitamin E, and phytosterols. In a hair product, this can soften hair and reduce static and fly-aways.
Sweet almond oil - Another emollient filled with linoleic and oleic acids.
Vegetable emulsifying wax - This could be any form of e-wax. Emulsifies our oils and water.
Cocoa butter - An emollient that thickens our products.
Shea butter - An emollient that can thicken our products.
Apricot kernel oil - A light, emollient oil.
Beeswax - Used to thicken our products.
Essential Oil Or Lemongrass - Not sure what this means other than it could have an essential oil or it could have lemongrass essential oil?
Fragrance - Makes it smell nice!
Jojoba Oil - This oil penetrates through our hair follicles, so it'll be good for our scalp and will act as an emollient for our hair.
Wheat Germ Oil - Another great emollient.
Vitamin C - An anti-oxidant.
Xanthan Gum - A thickener. Use at 0.1% to 0.3% in our lotions. (More information, scroll down.)
Sodium Bicarbonate - Can be used as a pH adjuster and will make the product more alkaline.
Phenoxyethanol - Part of the preservative system. It's generally paired up with a paraben or another preservative that is better with fighting fungus!
Tetradibutyl Pentaerithrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate - Another anti-oxidant (And note, in the ingredient list there's a comma which would indicate these are two different ingredients, but they're just one.)
So what do we have here? If you guessed it was a lotion that we put on hair, you're right! The big difference between a conditioning product and this hair milk is the emulsifier. If we were making a conditioner, we'd use BTMS-50 or another cationic emulsifier. In this case, we're using e-wax, which means it won't be positively charged. So if you want to duplicate this product, you're going to be making a lotion!
How do we figure out how much to use of each ingredient? Look at the e-wax. We have two oils above the e-wax, and the rest fall below. When we make a lotion at home, the e-wax amount generally falls in the middle of our oil phase with oils making up more (all the oils, not just one), the butters about the same amount, and our thickener (which isn't here) in a smaller amount.
The jojoba and wheat germ oils are in the 1% category below the fragrance, so we know we are going to be using mostly soy bean and sweet kernel oil, with the rest of the ingredients coming in at 2% to 3% at the most. I have no idea what the viscosity of this product might be, but considering it's called a milk, I'm thinking it's around a 70% water lotion viscosity.
If we're making a 70% water lotion, I generally go for 24% oils with a 6% emulsifier amount. I'm using Polawax here because I always use Polawax, but you can use your emulsifier of choice. If you wanted to make a companion conditioner, just switch out the e-wax for Incroquat BTMS-50 and you've got yourself a very moisturizing and conditioning product! (Just leave out the xanthan gum in a conditioner - you don't need it!)
I'm not including sodium bicarbonate as the pH should be fine, but you can adjust your pH as you want (click here for more information).
POSSIBLE DUPLICATE FOR CAROL'S DAUGHTER HAIR MILK
HEATED WATER PHASE
0.3% xanthan gum
HEATED OIL PHASE
8% soy bean oil
7% sweet almond oil
2% cocoa butter
2% shea butter
2% apricot kernel oil
1% jojoba oil
1% wheat germ oil
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1.5% preservative
Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe.
I've maxed out the xanthan gum here. You could leave it out or you could reduce it if you find this too thick. If you want this to be thicker without xanthan gum, you can increase the cocoa butter or shea butter to be 4%. If you want this to be thinner, reduce those butters. I've used Vitamin E instead of Vitamin C as it is more stable as an anti-oxidant, and I'm using my favourite preservative in here (liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%), but you can use your favourite at the recommended amount and modify your water phase accordingly.
Let me know what you think if you try this recipe!
Join me tomorrow for more duplicating fun!