Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Duplicating products: Boots Organic Rich Body Butter

Merilyn e-mailed me to ask...I wonder if you can help me with this body butter. I whip butter after butter and I just can't seem to get the same just whipped spreadable consistency...The specific item is called 'ORGANIC Body Rich Body Butter', it's 81% certified Organic. It says it "Deeply nourishes hydrates and protects with Shea Butter and Murumuru Butter." (An aside: And what the heck does nourishing our skin really mean?)

If you want to make a suggestion for a product you'd like to see duplicated, click on this link and make a comment. Please include a link to the product and an ingredient list. 

Let's take a look at the ingredient list and see what we can do to duplicate this product! (As usual, click on the link to see more information about each ingredient.)

Aqua (Water) (Water), Astrocaryum Murumuru (Palm Tree) Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Shea butter), Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (Olive), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (Jojoba), Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet almond), Cetearyl Olivate (Source Olive Oil), Alcohol Denatured, Sorbitan Olivate (Source Olive Oil), Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Beeswax), Xanthan Gum , Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Citrus Auranitium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil (Bergamot), Limonene, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Linalool, Rosa Damascena (Bulgarian Rose) Flower Oil, Citronellol, Geraniol

Aqua (Water): Our solvent.

Astrocaryum Murumuru (Palm Tree) Butter: This is known as palm tree seed butter or murumuru butter. It has a an interesting fatty acid profile with 1.85% caprylic acid (C8), 1.85% capric (C10), 47.5% lauric acid (C12), 26% myristic acid (C14), 6% palmitic acid (C16), 2.5% stearic acid (C18), 12.5% oleic acid (C18:1), and 3% linoleic acid (C18:2). It has a melting point of 25˚C to 37˚C, making it more like coconut oil than cocoa butter. (Actually it has almost the same lauric acid level as coconut oil, and almost the same melting point.)

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter): A thick, greasy feeling butter that has an up to 2 year shelf life.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil: Olive oil is a medium to heavy weight feeling oil with a greasy skin feel, a lot of oleic acid, and a shelf life of up to a year.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil: Technically it's a wax with a two year shelf life.

Glycerin: A good humectant.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet almond): A light emollient with a 9 to 12 month life span.

Cetearyl Olivate (Source Olive Oil): Combined with sorbitan olivate, this makes up Olivem 1000 emulsifier. (Click here for the data sheet or here for more information from Lotioncrafter.) As Olivem 1000, it would be used at 3% to 8% in a lotion or cream.

Alcohol Denatured: Alcohol (ethanol) to which something has been added to make it undrinkable.

Sorbitan Olivate (Source Olive Oil): Also known as sorbitan olivate, it is a low HLB emulsifier (4.3) that can be combined with a high HLB emulsifier to create an emulsification system. We find it in Olivem 1000 as an emulsifier.

Cetearyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol with a thicker and waxier feeling than cetyl alcohol, it will thicken the product.

Glyceryl Stearate: A low HLB emulsifier (3.8) that can be combined with a high HLB emulsifier to create an emulsification system. Generally used at 2% or lower.

Cera Alba (Beeswax): Used to thicken and make things more waterproof.

Xanthan Gum: Used at 0.1% to 0.3% to thicken lotions.

Sodium Benzoate: A preservative. It converts to benzoic acid, which is a good anti-microbial and fungicidal preservative, when it's in an acidic mixture. (Benzoic acid isn't very water soluble, so we use the sodium benzoate in water so it will dissolve and become benzoic acid.) Sodium benzoate is bacteriostatic, which means it limits the growth of bacteria by messing with its metabolism, but doesn't kill it. It is also a recognized fungicidal ingredient.

Potassium Sorbate: A preservative. It's effective against yeasts, fungi, and molds, but isn't great for bacteria, although it has some effect.

Citric Acid: A chelating, anti-oxidizing, pH adjusting ingredient.

Citrus Auranitium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil (Bergamot): Essential oil.

Limonene, Linalool, Cintrollelo, and Geraniol: Components of essential or fragrance oils.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil: Rose geranium essential oil.

Rosa Damascena (Bulgarian Rose) Flower Oil: Essential oil.

So what kind of product is this? It's an oil in water lotion using Olivem 1000 as the emulsifier. You can't get this consistency using just butters - it's the water, glycerin, and xanthan gum that makes it feel the way it does.

As a note, a body butter can be all butters, butters and oils, or a lotion - there's no real definition for what a body butter must be. 

What's important in this recipe? Is there anything we can leave out? Not really. It seems like each ingredient brings something to the mix. I would probably substitute the Olivem 1000 for Polawax or another e-wax as I don't have that emulsifier and I wasn't real thrilled using Olivem 800, but this will change the feel of the product.

I'm not adding the alcohol as it can be quite drying. If you want a cooling feeling from the product, consider using witch hazel distillate (one without alcohol) - it will evaporate and feel cool but it won't be as drying in the product. If you really want to use alcohol, substitute it for the witch hazel in the possible duplicate recipe.

Is there anything we should include? I prefer to use a broad spectrum preservative because sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate aren't great against bacteria, so I'd use something like liquid Germall Plus, Germaben II, Liquipar Optima, Optiphen ND, or Phenonip at the suggested amount in the cool down phase.

So let's take a look at a possible duplication of Boots Organic Rich Body Butter!

60% water
5% witch hazel
3% glycerin

5% murumuru butter
5% shea butter
5% olive oil
5% jojoba oil
2% sweet almond
2% cetearyl alcohol
1% beeswax
6.25% emulsifier

0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
0.5% to 1% essential oils
0.2% xanthan gum (optional)
0.2% citric acid (if necessary to bring down the pH)

This doesn't total exactly 100% because of the optional xanthan gum and citric acid as well as the differences in preservatives. Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe.

I realize that I'm using more emulsifier than would be used in the original recipe, but I'm following the 25% rule for Polawax. There are different rules for different emulsifiers.

As with any starting duplicate recipe, play with it to see what you like. I have no idea what this product feels like, but if you want it to be thicker, you can increase the butters and increase the cetearyl alcohol (although that will make it feel more waxy).

Join me tomorrow for more fun duplicating products when we take a look at Lush's 9 to 5 oil cleanser.


SL Meyer said...

I'm trying to figure out the "81% Organic" bit on the jar. Since water is usually around 60% or higher of most o/w and w/o body butters, creams and lotions. Just sayin'

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

If it means that 81% of the non-water ingredients are organic, then about 32% of the ingredients are organic (40% not water x .81 = 32.4%)? Water can't be organic - except in the chemical sense - so we have to exclude that from any estimation of what is organic in a product. I see the words "certified organic" but I don't know who did the certifying, at least from the information I've read on websites.

I honestly have no idea what anything means any more!

acubri said...

Hi Susan;

I'm trying to use Olivem 1000 (or something like it) in a formulation much like this one with more botanicals. The problem with using these products rather than E wax or polarwax or some other more standard emulsifier is that Olivem tends to feels waxy and isn't as forgiving as E wax. Sigh! I'm making this with my daughter and we're trying for Ecocert and organic much like this product. Can you help?

I know the easy answer already, but do you have a non ester solution to this problem? Thanks so much for all your amazing knowledge, by the way!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Acubri. I'm a little confused by your question. What do you mean a non-ester answer to the problem? Are you looking to increase slip and reduce greasiness? Are you looking for a different emulsifier? If you can clarify your question, I might be able to help further.

acubri said...

OK. Here's the deal. We are looking for the best Ecocert emulsifier out there right now. The pickin's are slim! Olivem 1000 is the best I can find so far (which ain't saying much!!!!) It's really fine except that it leaves a waxy residue in the lotion. That's it. Not greasy but waxy. My understanding of esters like IPM (which I love), is that that esters can somewhat help with a waxy residue. No??

Anyway, I'm looking for an organic or ecocert way out of this puzzle. It's a bit of catch 22, I know, but perhaps you can help me.

Thanks for any ideas, Susan.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi acubri! I wouldn't use IPM to reduce waxiness - it's better at reducing greasiness. I'd reduce the waxy feeling by reducing the waxy feeling things in the product, like fatty alcohols (cetearyl is really bad for this) or beeswax.

As for the emulsifier, have you considered Ritamulse SCG (sometimes called Ecomulse or Natramulse)? I've used it in a few things, and really quite liked it. (Although it looks like sodium steroyl lactylate might be the new big bad, if you believe Wonder bread!) I enjoyed using it - used it at 8% with 20% to 25% oils and butters - which is a ridiculous ratio, but lower than that lead to separation - and it has a nice feel to it. My mom really liked it. It is ECOcert.

The Herbarie makes this suggestion: For increased stability and moisturization we recommend OryzaSilk or VenaSilk from 1-2%. For increased slip and elegant feel in application, we recommend an emollient ester or Botanical Complex LSC™, LSCD or Calendula Extract from 1-5%.

I didn't do these things - although I bought the Venasilk, I didn't get around to trying it - and things were stable and fine with it.

Link to Lotioncrafter
Link to the Herbarie
Link to Creations from Eden

I'm not affiliated with any of these companies, so I make the suggestion here as I know they carry this product!

Anonymous said...

I'm just wondering what is the purpose of ethanol in cosmetics, specifically hair conditioners (Aubrey Organics for example) and this product. I can't seem to find much information on its purpose. Any insight would be great.


Linhntp said...

Hi Susan,
I see that you use xanthan gum at cool down phase, however at another post in the xanthan gum serie you said you tried it at cool down and it didn't turn out well. Also I saw you mentioned that xanthan gum should be in heated oil phase though it is soluble in water. I am a bit confused. Can you please help clarify all those comments of yours? Many thanks, Linh.