Sunday, March 27, 2011

Using cosmeceuticals in our facial products for oily skin

Oftentimes, oily skinned people sit on the sidelines wishing we could use some of these interesting and exotic cosmeceutical ingredients, knowing that we would break out almost immediately if we added extra oils to our skin. But we can use oil free type moisturizers, so let's take a look at how we can incorporate some of these amazing ingredients into our facial products. (Click here or here for more information and recipes for oil free moisturizers.)

We can use just about any of the cosmeceutical ingredients I've written about in this series of posts because very few of them are oil based. So you'll want to assess your skin's needs and include your ingredients accordingly. I find niacinamide fascinating for oily skin as it claims that it can reduce sebum production and the size of our pores at just 2% in our heated water phase. MSM may reduce oiliness and behave as a humectant at 1% in our heated water phase. If you're worried about aging skin, a little Matrixyl 3000 might help at up to 8% in our cool down phase (we'll use it at 3% to see how our skin likes it), and we can use other ingredients like Pepha-Tight at 3% in the cool down phase or sea kelp bioferment at 2% to 5% in the heated water phase or beta glucan at 2% to 10% in the heated water phase.

I'm going to go with 2% niacinamide, 1% MSM, 3% Matrixyl 3000, and beta glucan at 2% in this recipe, but you can choose any combination you wish. This means I need to remove 8% from my water phase. Feel free to add or remove your favourite or not-so-favourite ingredients from this product, but remember to modify your water phase accordingly!

10% aloe vera
10% hydrosol of choice
56% water
2% hydrolyzed protein (high molecular weight)
3% honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% sodium lactate or sodium PCA
0.5% allantoin
2% niacinamide
1% MSM
2% beta glucan

2% cetyl alcohol

3% Matrixyl 3000
2% panthenol
0.5% -1% preservative

Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe.

There you have it! An oil free moisturizer chock full of beneficial goodness! Join me tomorrow for some ideas on how to use cosmeceuticals in other facial products!


LiisK said...

These recipes make me seriously regret that I only have mineral makeup ingredients currently at hand... Where would be a good place to shop in Europe, that would cater for DIY cosmetic makers?

Anonymous said...

Have you tried making anything with the new ICE product? If so, would you say it is just as good as the heated way? If not, why?

I am not sure if it would be right for every application but it does seem like it would be a time saver for a lot of recipes.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I haven't tried the new ICE product and I'm not really sure what it's about. The blurb on says "Mixture to create easily stable creams using no emulsifiers and no heating..." but they are using an emulsifier (high HLB ceteareth-20) so I think they're using the word emulsifier in a different way here. The fact sheet gives no more information than the page on which you can buy it, so I'm really not sure what it's about. I really should order some, but the old credit card is still smoking from my last spree, so it'll be a while before I can order it!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi LiisK. I know of a few retailers in England, but I don't know if that helps you.

Of a Simple Nature - I've ordered from them and they were awesome.
Fresholi - I've never shopped with them, but I do frequent the forum from time to time.

I'm going to post your comment as a post and see what we can find!

LiisK said...

Thank you :) I'm sure that post will be very much sought after - your blog is very inspirational, and now I itch to get my hands on the ingredients too. We have a wholesaler here selling natural oils in Estonia but that's about it. There's no place to shop for shampoo ingredients etc...
England is a nice place to shop, hopefully they also have reasonable shipping prices to continental Europe.