Monday, February 28, 2011
Learning to formulate: More tweaking of light lotions
So what kind of changes can we make? Well, it depends on the goals of your lotion!
Let's say we want something that's a little thicker but still want an 80% water amount. We can add a butter to the mix - say 5% of something like cocoa butter, mango butter, or shea butter - or we can add more thickener. Adding stearic acid will make it thicker than cetyl alcohol or cetyl esters. I'd suggest using about 2% to 3% thickener in a recipe like this.
So let's say we want a more occlusive lotion and we don't want to use dimethicone for that purpose. Let's use 5% cocoa butter and 10% oils. This will give us a thicker, more occlusive lotion than one without cocoa butter. Or we could use 5% cocoa butter, 2% stearic acid or cetyl alcohol, and 8% oils to make a much thicker, occlusive lotion than the original.
Or if you wanted to make something occlusive with dimethicone, you could use 2% dimethicone (in the cool down phase), 3% cocoa butter, 2% stearic acid or cetyl alcohol, and 8% oils.
Or we could use something like babassu oil - did I mention I love this stuff? - along with a less greasy oil (let's say camellia seed oil as I have a lot at home) and some IPM and BTMS-50 to make a drier feeling product. Say 5% babassu oil, 8% camellia seed oil, 2% IPM, and replace the emulsifier with BTMS-50 for a light, non-greasy feeling product.
Or let's say we want to make something that would be considered oil free (although technically the C12-15 alkyl benzoate lotion was oil free because we used an ester instead of an oil). We could use 10% esters, 3% cetyl alcohol, and 2% cetyl esters, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, or another thickener to make an oil-free but thicker product.
There are hundreds - if not thousands - of different combinations you can try in all the lotions I've been writing about here. It all depends on what you want in a product!
Join me tomorrow for a quick summary of what we've learned so far!