Sunday, January 23, 2011

Iron Chemist: Floraesters IPJ

Welcome to Workshop Stadium. This week the Chairman, Raymond (my lovely husband), has chosen the fifth Iron Chemist ingredient - Floraesters IPJ!

Here are the rules. (Click here for the long version.) Raymond rolled an eight, which means he chose an ingredient from the sample box in my workshop. I have until next Saturday, January 29th, to make two to three recipes using this ingredient.

So what the heck are Floraesters IPJ and where can you get them? I'll answer the latter first - I have no idea. I received them as a sample, so I don't have a lot with which to play, maybe 100 ml or so. (If you have an idea of where to find these, please comment!) What are they? That I can answer!

IPJ is an ester derived from jojoba oil with an INCI isopropyl jojobate (35%), jojoba alcohol (35%), jojoba esters, (30%), and 0.1% tocopherols. Because it's an ester, this means it will be a better spreading and less greasy ingredient than a typical oil. It's a low viscosity ester with a light yellow appearance and no odour (although having said that, low viscosity is a relative term because it seems lighter than rice bran oil to me!). It's considered a silicone alternative because of its high spreadability and light, dry feeling, so you could use it in a conditioner or anywhere you might be using silicones. (I found some information indicating it could be used in a shampoo, but another data sheet said you couldn't and it isn't soluble in SLS or decyl glucoside, so I'm going with the you can't use it in shampoo without some kind of emulsifier camp). I would like to include a picture of it here, but I can't find one online and my bottle is covered in oils, so it looks just awful. I'll have to re-bottle it and put a picture up shortly.

Floraester IPJ is soluble in all our usual oils - vegetable and mineral - as well as other esters like IPM or IPP, as well as cyclomethicone and it isn't soluble in dimethicone, the glycols (butylene or propylene), glycerin, polysorbate 20, water, or surfactants, so you'll have to mix it with polysorbate 80 or another solubilize to use it in a water only product (it's definitely an oil soluble ingredient). I'd add it to the heated oil phase when making a lotion of some kind or melt it with the oils in an anhydrous product. It's recommended for lip sticks and balms at up to 30% because it forms an interesting matrix with the waxes (much like castor oil would) and for oil free type products (because it's not an oil!). The suggested usage is up to 20% in a cream or lotion in the heated oil phase or use it at up to 5% in a deodorant to increase glide and decrease white streaking or up to 5% in a bath or massage oil to increase glide.

It's supposed to be awesome for colour cosmetic products like foundations because it has a matte finish, so it's a great inclusion in cream or liquid products like blushes, concealers, lip sticks, and anything else you want to make that shouldn't be shiny. I'm thinking that it would be great for an oil free moisturizer or eye cream.

The melting point of Floraester IPJ is 6˚C to 12˚C, so you'll treat it like a normal oil at room temperature, although you can heat it before using to remove any crystals if you've had it in a cold workshop and find it's solidified a bit (this would be when the ester has reached its titer point.)

I'm going to start off by substituting it for cyclomethicone in one of my usual products so I can get an idea of the skin feel, then I'll have some fun playing. This is going to be a fun week indeed! 

1 comment:

Jennifer Rogers said...

Hi Susan,

I'm not sure whether you ever managed to find out where to get Floraesters IPJ from, but if you didn't it is a Floratech product. Floratech is based in Arizona in the US and they have amazing products - have a look at their Floraesters K100 or K20W, if you haven't already. These are amazing products. Regards Jennifer