Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Esters: Using PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate in conditioners

We've taken a look at using esters in rinse-off and leave-in conditioners, and it's easy to add our PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate to conditioners in place of our silicones or as an additional emollient, conditioning, and shine enhancing ingredient.

Making an intense conditioner is a great idea for dry or processed hair, so let's take a look at one of my favourite intense conditioners - one with coconut oil! We'll use it as a silicone replacement in this recipe by removing the cyclomethicone and dimethicone in the cool down phase and replacing it with 4% PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate in the heated oil phase.

7% Incroquat BTMS
3% Incroquat CR (detangling, softening)
8% coconut oil or virgin coconut oil
3% cetyl alcohol (synergistic effect with the cationic quats)
4% PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate

55.5% water
10% aloe vera or other hydrosol of choice
2% humectant like glycerin or 2% honeyquat or polyquat 7 in the cool down phase
2% hydrolyzed protein

2% panthenol
2% cetrimonium chloride
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative

Use the general conditioner making instructions for this recipe.

You can use PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate in any conditioning product as a silicone replacement - add up to 4% in the heated oil phase - or as an additional emollient by adding up to 4% in the heated oil phase and removing 4% of your water phase to compensate. Leave your silicones in the cool down phase as normal. (Click here for more conditioner recipes in the hair care section!)

Join me tomorrow for fun with another PPG ester - Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate or Cromollient SCE!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

I purchased some Incroquat CR and I'm looking forward to making a condioner with it when it arrives. I've been looking at another product called "Hair Conditioner Concentrate". The ingredients are: Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearalkonium Chloride, Dimethyl Stearamine, Lactic Acid. You add about 1/2 oz of pellets to 8 oz of water. You can also add oils or other additives. I would like to know how the ingredients in this product compare to Incroquat CR. I'm not familiar with the dimethyl stearamine and I think the lactic acid might be used as a ph adjuster. Just my theory. I truly enjoy your blog and have I learned so much. I look forward to your reply. Thank you! DMCC

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

As I noted on the first page of this blog, I can't necessarily get to your comments the moment they arrive, so I ask for your patience for a response. You don't need to write the comment on two different posts - I will get to them as soon as I am able. Additionally, I might have to do some research to answer the question, so that might take time as well.

I can't find the company that makes this product, so I can't find a data sheet on it. I can't find a brand name other than Hair Conditioner Concentrate from one company, Crafter's choice. I haven't used this product so I can't comment on how it works, but I have seen a few posts on the Long Hair Community commenting that the users' hair felt dry. This can be compensated for by adding emollients, but I would think with two fatty alcohols in the product, it should be more moisturizing.

I would suggest when suppliers change the name of their ingredients, ask the suppliers for the data sheet and original product name. They are generally happy to provide that information. Or do a google search with the INCI information and see if there is a name for the product out there. You'd be surprised at how many suppliers alter the names of products, but they can't alter the INCI.

Stearalkonium chloride is the main conditioning ingredient in Incroquat CR. The fatty alcohols will boost the substantivity of the cationic quaternary compound and add emolliency to the mix. (As a note, CR has cetearyl alcohol, which is a blend of stearyl and cetyl alcohol.) Dimethyl stearamine is an anti-static product, and I have no idea why lactic acid is in there (I think you're right about the pH adjustment.) So this looks a lot like Incroquat CR.

I would consider it more of a cream rinse maker like Incroquat CR, good for adding softening and anti-static properties to a conditioner, but I wouldn't use it as the primary quaternary compound. It might not emulsify your oils and silicones well, and it isn't as substantive or lubricating as something like behentrimonium chloride or methosulfate (stearalkonium has 18 carbon atoms, whereas behentrimonium chloride has 22 atoms, so it's less lubricating). I'm basing this on the information I've gathered from the INCI name and my experiences with Incroquat CR. I haven't used this product, so I'd welcome any comments from anyone who has used the product!

It's a little more expensive than Incroquat CR - CR is about $10 to $11 per pound - but cheaper than BTMS-50.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

Thank you for your response. Sorry for posting the question in two different areas, but I wasn't sure if I needed to post it in the conditioner section or not. I think the first post was in another ester section. I wanted to post it in the intense condtioner section, but that was from April 2009 comments and responses. Let me know if it's good to post in older sections. I was trying to put it in the most relevant area, not trying to get a quicker response. It was my first time posting on your blog.

When I try the Crafter's Choice Hair Conditioner Concentrate I'll let you know. I made your intense hair conditioner recipe with loads of oils. I do mean loads! I didn't have the Incroquat CR and I left out the cones and replaced them with oils. I used the BTMS along with cetyl stearyl alcohol. I really like it. It's a very thick cream that leaves my hair feeling nice. I have curly, dry hair that loves oils and moisture. I can't wait to use the Incroquat CR in it. I know I'll like it even more. DMCC

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

Could you possibly tell where to get benzyl ether myristate? I've looked for it at The Herbarie (I hate shopping there because the shipping is always ridiculous), Lotioncrafters, Making Cosmetics, and all the supplier links on your site all to no avail. I'm making a dupe of MoroccanOil's Moisture Repair Conditioner and that's one of the ingredients.

Thanks so much for everything you do!


Gill said...

Hi Susan

I love your blog and I have been reading it for years! I'm also trying to find a source for the PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (aka Crodamol STS). Do you know a supplier that sells it in small quantities? Less than 25kg MOQ? I have been looking around the web but haven't found one. thanks so much! Gill

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Gill! Sorry, but I couldn't find anything. I used to get it at the Personal Formulator, but they don't have it any more. Maybe ask them if they're getting it in again?