Thursday, September 9, 2010

Esters: Using Cromollient SCE in your hair care products

Cromollient SCE works really well in hair care products so let's take a look at using its emollient and detangling properties in our shampoos and conditioners! Cromollient SCE will increase the mildness, decrease the wet and dry combing forces on our hair, and offer emolliency and detangling properties. So let's take a look at adding this to a conditioning shampoo.

As we know, the goal of a conditioning shampoo is to increase the conditioning agents in the product. We generally use a cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7 and dimethicone to get these results, but we can use Cromollient SCE alone or with other esters to get similar results. We saw how to use PPG-3 benzyl myristate in a shampoo to replace the dimethicone in a previous post and we can use both of them in this shampoo if you wish...but let's take a look at using Cromollient SCE at 3% on its own first!

Cromollient SCE is a great choice for all hair types - dry hair likes the emollience, and oily hair can benefit from esters for more emollience without a ton of greasiness. It can help us oily hair types get extra detangling and emollience without increasing the chances of a really bad hair day! Since I like a lot of conditioning and detangling, I'll leave in the dimethicone and conditioning agents, but you can modify this for your preferences.

15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
15% DLS mild
23% water
10% aloe vera or witch hazel
10% lovely hydrosol like orange blossom, peppermint, or rosemary
10% Amphosol CG
3% Cromollient SCE
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein (silk for non-frizzy hair, Cromoist for frizzy hair)
2% panthenol
2% dimethicone or condition-eze 7
2% essential oil blend
(optional) 0.5% extract - grapeseed or rosemary
up to 2% Crothix
0.5% Germall Plus or 1.0% Germaben II
Colour, if desired

Note: Feel free to leave out the aloe vera and hydrosol and use all water!

Use the general instructions for shampoo making for this recipe.

And yes, you'd do the same thing if you wanted to add this ingredient into a body wash - add up to 3% in the same phase as the surfactant and remove 3% from the water phase! (In fact, anywhere you can use something like PEG-7 olivate, you can use Cromollient SCE! Both are water soluble or dispersible!)

As a note, if you wanted something really emollient in a body wash, consider using a combination of esters like PEG-7 olivate and Cromollient SCE, or PEG-7 olivate and myristamine oxide or even something like glycol distearate and another ester to get something really moisturizing! Oh heck, let's look at this tomorrow instead of writing all these substitutions!

And consider using Cromollient SCE at 3% in a rinse off conditioner and 1% in a leave in conditioner! Just remove the appropriate percentage from your water phase and you've got yourself a detangling, conditioning, and lubricating conditioner! Take a look at these recipes for the rinse off or leave in conditioners and just substitute Cromollient SCE for the ester you don't want to use!

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating a really moisturizing body wash tomorrow with Cromollient SCE!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,

I've been experimenting with Cromollient SCE in a rinse-off conditioner and am not having much luck and was hoping you might offer some guidance. My basic recipe (which I've made many times and works lovely) is as follows:

Water Phase:
2% Glycerine
20% Aloe

Oil Phase:
4% BTMS-50
2% Cetyl Alcohol
3% Incroquat CR
7% Oils

2% Panthenol
2% Honeyquat
2% Protein
2% Dimethicone
2% Cyclomethicone
1% Extracts
0.5% Germall
1% Fragrance

My first batch I used the exact same recipe but added 3% Cromollient SCE (subtracting water). When I added the cool-down ingredients, the mixture really thinned out and separated the next day.

For my second batch, I used 2% Cromollient SCE and 6% BTMS-50 (adjusting the water accordingly). Again, the mixture was nice and thick before adding the cool-down ingredients. It, again, thinned out to the viscosity of water and I expect it will separate overnight.

Any possible things to try going forward? For some reason, the Cromollient isn't playing nice with something in my cool-down phase (or so it seems). I added the cool-down ingredients in different orders both times to try and see if one particular ingredient was the culprit but it doesn't seem to be. It just seems like the total quantity of cool-down ingredients (all water soluble) are thinning it out. Do I add MORE BTMS-50? I'm at a loss here and was hoping you may have some suggestions of things to try.


Anonymous said...

I just wanted to mention that I added the Cromollient SCE to my heated oil phase in the recipe above.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Nicole. I've had a few people who have mentioned this, so I want to do some experimenting to see what I can figure out for you. So watch this space!

Tara said...

You've said that Cromollient is insoluble in glycerin. Could that be the reason for the separation? I am trying to decide which I would prefer with surfactants: Cromollient or glycerine?

cyndy said...

Hi Swift
I've had the same experience as Nicole. My BTMS-50 and water combinations are fine immediately after mixing, but seem to thin out during cool down. Adding cool down ingredients make it worse, especially the Germal +. I can't find the culprit. Any ideas?


Kari said...

Hi Swift, I was wondering if you came to any conclusions about using cromollient SCE in a rinse off conditioner. I am having the same issues as above, and it's really hard to find a definitive answer online. Do you have any recipes in which you have used cromollient in a rinse off conditioner?I'd love some examples. Thanks so much!

rina N said...

Hi Susan, very interested in your research regarding cromollient SCE too!
And thanks to your reply to my stearic question.
Kind regards, Rina.

ME G said...

Hi Susan, me too, very interested if you've discovered what is the problem with cromollient SCE!
Could you be so kind to put us out of the misery and post your findings, PLEASE!!! :)
Hugs, Irina.