Sunday, September 19, 2010

Deodorants: A few thoughts on some additions

There are many ways to tweak the three recipes I've posted, so let's take a look at a few things you could include to make your deodorant more moisturizing, more soothing, and more anti-bacterial. Remember that we want to make the ingredients we include to be water soluble, so you don't want to add oils without adding a solubilizer or emulsifier as well.

If you're looking for anti-bacterial or anti-septic ingredients, consider using aloe vera, chrysanthemum extract, honeysuckle extract, St John's Wort, or comfrey root (powdered extract, also a good anti-inflammatory ingredient). You can add the liquid ingredients in place of water or dissolve the powdered ingredients in some warm water, glycerin, propylene glycol, or alcohol and add it during the cool down phase.

If you're looking for moisturizing, consider using the water soluble esters, cationic polymers like honeyquat or polyquat-7 (if you aren't using Tinosan), lanolin, aloe vera, or a hydrolyzed protein like oat, wheat, soy, or silk. Add them in the appropriate phase.

If you're looking for a cooling or post-shaving kind of deodorant, consider adding witch hazel, white willow bark (will help with inflammation), and other astringent ingredients like cucumber extract. You could also use something like peppermint hydrosol in small amounts or peppermint essential oil at around 0.5%. If you're looking for soothing, consider using aloe verachamomile (hydrosol or powdered extract), or lavender hydrosol.

You can include an ingredient like talc for extra absorbency at up to 5%, although you won't get a clear gel bar any more, or baking soda for more deodorizing at up to 5%. You can add corn starch as well, but I'd suggest using something like Dry-Flo that is meant to be used in watery products.

If you aren't using Tinosan in your products, please use a preservative. Yes, I know alcohol is supposed to be self-preserving, but I still worry about what people will do with a product once I've given it to them! And if you're using botanical ingredients, you really need to use a preservative! I use liquid Germall Plus or Germaben II, but any preservative suitable for water based products will work. Optiphen ND will work, but Optiphen won't. Phenonip won't work here either.

So if you wanted to tweak the first deodorant recipe we made with these ingredients, it might look something like this!

7% sodium stearate
47% alcohol
25% propylene glycol
10% peppermint hydrosol
3% cationic polymer - honeyquat or polyquat 7
3% water soluble ester (Crodamol PMP) or cyclomethicone
0.5% chrysanthemum extract
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% tea tree oil
0.5% to 1% preservative

Weigh the sodium stearate, alcohol, and propylene glycol into a heat proof container, place in double boiler, and heat until the sodium stearate is melted. Remove from the heat, let cool to 50˚C and add the rest of the ingredients. Pour into deodorant tubes and let set. Rejoice!

Join me later today for a final note on making a lotion bar based deodorants, then join me tomorrow as we return to the world of esters by learning about polysorbates!


crystie said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
crystie said...

Hi Susan,

Love your blog. I've been going through trying to get the vocabulary into my brain. I really want to make a good deodorant. Per LisaLise, I found that using a crystal stick prior to a lotion bar deodorant works pretty well. So how about just adding some potassium alum to a deodorant recipe?

I got alum with this formula: KA1(SO4)2 12H2O. This was based on men on shaving forums saying that potassium alum is better than ammonium alum.

What percent would you suggest? The MSDS sheet seems a little scary. But the skin warnings are the same as for baking soda and salt. It's as granular as salt, so I assume adding it to the witch hazel recipe would be best. Would it dissolve in oil for the lotion bar deodorant?

I know you get a lot of comments, so I'll be experimenting in the meantime.