Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Esters: Using PEG-7 olivate in shampoo

If you're a greasy haired girl, you'll avoid oils like I avoid Brussel sprouts on Christmas Day. But don't avoid esters - PEG-7 olivate and other water soluble oils aren't out to increase your greasiness and spoil that good hair day. Using it in small amounts can offer some emolliency and shine to your hair, so give it a try!

You already know how awesome SCI feels on your hair - creamy, foamy, and luxurious - but the oily haired girls need to avoid the stuff with stearic acid or suffer the wrath of the greasies! We can adapt a recipe for shampoo with SCI to be more emollient, which is a benefit for those of us with so-called greasy roots and dry ends. (This recipe is originally from this post, so if you want to see why I'm using the ingredients I'm using, please click here.)

48% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% SCI (without stearic acid)
5% surfactant of choice (SLeS, SMC Taurate, a blend, and so on)
10% aloe vera
2% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein
5% PEG-7 olivate

3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% dimethicone
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% fragrance or essential oils
(up to 2% Crothix - when cooled down - optional)

For oily hair, I'd suggest using 5% SCI (without stearic acid) and 10% surfactant of choice (C14-16 olefin sulfonate or a sulfosuccinate like DLS mild) for more oil removal. As well, oily haired girls might want to leave out the dimethicone and conditioning agents if you're finding your hair doesn't feel squeaky clean after washing: Save those for your conditioner (this also means it's now a clarifying shampoo).

If you're a dry haired girl, you can add PEG-7 olivate to any of your shampoo recipes for increased emolliency, but you might want to use something a lot more oily if you have really dry hair!

You can find all the shampoo recipes listed on this page.

Join me tomorrow for using a bunch of different esters in your conditioners!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

What have I written in the past about advertising on my blog? You know the rules! $1000 for three lines, and I get to mock you. The bill will be in the mail shortly. Now for the mocking.

To my wonderful readers, this whole Face Doctor thing is a crock. Their studies aren't valid and their evidence is dubious. If you want to waste your money on this product, go ahead. Click on the link and send these people your money only to find out your acne won't get any better. I hope you've learned a little something on this blog, enough to know how to read studies and question the claims made about products. Apparently the Face Doctor people haven't read this blog and can't figure out this isn't somewhere they want to advertise. Oh well...

Sciarretta Farms said...

Ok, you said:
"If you're a dry haired girl, you can add PEG-7 olivate to any of your shampoo recipes for increased emolliency, but you might want to use something a lot more oily if you have really dry hair!"

But elsewhere you said there was no point in using oils in the shampoo. So what other things did you have in mind for us dry haired girls?

I am getting my shampoo stuff tomorrow, including Peg 7! Both hubby and I are over the moon about the conditioner I created with the help of your blog. :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sciaretta Farms! Good question!

I was thinking of the idea of using the oils or esters as mildness enhancers as opposed to moisturizers. Adding oils can reduce the impact of the surfactants - reduce foam and lather, make them less concentrated - which would strip less oil from your hair. I'll have to update this post!

Which conditioner did you make? What do you like about it? I'm all curious now!

Zenobiah said...

Sorry for the late answer (I have to remember putting the email any answer option on!). I ended up making this conditioner: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/04/intense-hair-conditioner.html

But I tweaked it several times, upped the proteins, dropped the cetyl alcohol (it was in the BTMS and made things too thick), and used a mix of Coconut 76 and fractionated coconut, etc. I absolutely love it and I am currently well on my way to making a matching (more or less) shampoo.

I am beyond grateful for this blog!

Ally D. said...

Hi Susan, I apologize if you have answered this question elsewhere (I looked but could not find anything), but I am confused about one aspect of shampoo formulating--mixing anionics with cationics. A few of the companies I order from say that you cannot mix cationics in formulations with anionic surfactants. Yet, I own shampoos that mix these components, so I'm not sure why there is a caution against mixing the two? Any advice would be much appreciated!