Sunday, August 29, 2010

Esters: Using PEG-7 olivate in facial products

PEG-7 olivate (or indeed, the other water soluble esters like sunflower, jojoba, macadamia nut, and so on) are great additions to facial products. They offer increased emolliency and moisturization and a reduction in irritation, which are always great qualities, and those of us with oily skin can often enjoy the benefits using oils without feeling more greasy or breaking out horribly.

I like to include PEG-7 olivate in facial cleansers to give me that wonderful feeling of moisturization and a decrease in irritation from the surfactants.

I used PEG-7 olivate and jojoba esters in this exfoliating facial cleanser (this version is for normal and normal, wrinkled skin types and this one is for oily or sensitive skin types) and in many of the regular and foaming facial cleanser recipes. In this facial cleanser for dry skin, I've found that 3% is a great place to start with PEG-7 olivate, but you can increase it as high as 10% if you have really dry skin. And in this creamy facial cleanser for dry skin or these versions for normal and oily skin, you can substitute the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate with PEG-7 olivate and get a nice, emollient skin feel.

As I mentioned yesterday, PEG-7 olivate is a great inclusion in moisturizers for all skin types, but it's especially good for those of us with oily skin who need some moisturizing but don't want something that will increase our greasiness! Take a look at my oil-free moisturizer with water soluble oils or this cationic oil-free facial moisturizer. In the latter recipe, substitute 5% to 10% of the water phase with your PEG-7 olivate. Or this oil-free gel based moisturizer using PEG-7 olivate!

If you have a favourite moisturizer and want to try a little PEG-7 olivate in it, just substitute it for your oils and make your lotion as normal.

I like to use PEG-7 olivate in my toners for that feeling of moisturization and slight occlusion (although it's not occlusive, it feels occlusive), especially during the winter and summer when I feel a lot drier than normal. If you take a look at this basic recipe, it's easy to see how we can include PEG-7 olivate without a lot of effort. (As a note, adding this ingredient to a toner might make it dry skin friendly!)

up to 85% water based ingredients like aloe vera, hydrosols, and witch hazel
3% to 5% humectants
3 to 5% film formers and cationic quaternary polymers
3% to 5% moisturizers
2% panthenol
up to 1% extracts (including allantoin)
up to 1% preservative

So let's say we want to make a summer toner filled with loads of aloe vera, hydrosols, extracts, and other goodies for oily skin that is mostly resistant to break-outs. Here's an idea for a recipe (originally from this post, and there are other ideas located there).

21% water
30% witch hazel (the kind without alcohol)
25% rosemary hydrosol (or other hydrosol of choice)
10% aloe vera liquid
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% honeyquat
0.5% allantoin
5% PEG-7 olivate (or other water soluble oil)

2% panthenol
0.5% powdered rosemary extract
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% preservative (I use Germall Plus)

I've reduced the water amount by 5% and included my PEG-7 olivate in the heated phase. That was easy, eh?

And you can use it in a gel - it plays well with gels, and you get some emollience. I created a gel based toner in this post, and it's easy to modify by adding removing 5% from the witch hazel, lavender hydrosol, or aloe vera amount and adding your PEG-7 olivate. This is really more of a moisturizer, to be honest, as you can leave it on and enjoy the cooling, moisturizing feeling.

I also like to include the PEG-7 olivate in my cooling spray for the summer. It offers some nice emolliency and helps to solubilize the peppermint essential oil. (Polysorbate 20 works to emulsify it as well but it can leave the mixture cloudy and it feels a tad sticky on the skin in the summer heat!) You can find the original recipe below along with a few other water based spray recipes in my post on Hydrovance. (Feel free to play with other humectants in this recipe - I just wanted to use the Hydrovance that week!)

30% witch hazel hydrosol
25% lavender hydrosol (or another hydrosol of your choice)
16% water
10% aloe vera liquid
5% PEG-7 olivate
5% hydrovance
3% honeyquat
2% panthenol
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% extract (I use chamomile)
0.5% preservative (I use Germall Plus)
1% peppermint essential oil

Here's another version of the summer super extra aloe-y sun spray - just remove 5% to 10% of the water phase in favour of the PEG-7 olivate.

Join me tomorrow for fun using PEG-7 olivate in body washes and the day after for shampoos!


Pier said...

I saw many receipt using PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate but can't find this product nor in Voyageur nor in Creations from Eden, nor in NDA. Is there any other product that I could replace with ?
I have a shampoo recipe for dog and really need to make it for my girl who has 5 little dogs
Thanks a lot for your help.

Pierrette Guertin said...

I find PEG-7 at The Personal Formulator. It seems that the only place we can find it.