Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Esters: Ethylhexyl palmitate
It's a clear, colourless, almost odourless ester derived from coconut or palm oil. It's a medium spreading ester - it's a low viscosity, medium surface tension ester that is better than C12-15 alkyl benzoate and on par with dimethicone or fractionated coconut oil. In fact, it can be considered a good dimethicone equivalent for skin care products, so if you're looking to replace silicones in your non-hair care products, consider ethylhexyl palmitate. It's non-occlusive, but is considered comedogenic and acnegenic when used at higher levels.
You can use it at 1% to 50%, but 5% is considered the usual amount. At 40% to 50% it's considered mildly irritating; at 2.5% to 2.7% it's considered minimally irritating to all but the most extremely sensitive skin.
Ethylhexyl palmitate is generally used in foundations and mineral make-up powders as a binder, as well as lipsticks and lotions or creams. It's used a lot as a solvent for sunscreens as it won't interfere with the active ingredients. (But remember, don't make your own sunscreens!) Try using it in a body oil spray, lotion bar, or balm to increase the silky feeling and decrease the greasiness.
Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with ethylhexyl palmitate and other esters!