Tuesday, August 3, 2010

The chemistry of our nails: Whipped butter with lanolin and lecithin

As I've been mentioning for a few days, using lanolin and lecithin together in a nail care product will offer maximum moisturizing, water repellency, and those lovely phospholipids our nails really like. So let's take a look at making a whipped butter with these ingredients.

This recipe is rated E for everyone, and is fantastic for beginners, those who don't wish to use preservatives, or those who are seeking an all natural product. The shelf life of this product is dependent upon the shelf life of your oils. 

65% mango butter
8% lanolin
4% lecithin
15% green tea butter
7% hazelnut oil
1% fragrance or essential oil

Weigh all the ingredients except the fragrance and essential oil in a heatproof container and place in your double boiler. When the ingredients have melted, remove from the heat, add the fragrance or essential oil, and pour into a container.

If you want to whip this, put it into the fridge or freezer for a few minutes, then whip like silly. You can make it fancy by piping into containers with a 1M icing tip and put a little swirl on top.

As a note, I found some of the butters wanted to stay in the little indents of the bottom of the container. Make sure you get those little bits out before they harden and refuse to be part of your lovely whipped creation! 

I've pretty much used the same ingredients as yesterday, but in different proportions so it would be a whitish whipped balm. The difference between the two? This one will feel lighter and won't be as water repellant as yesterday's recipe. It does feel quite dry to the touch, and spreads a little easier. (I'm really loving this balm!)

You can substitute any oil for the hazelnut oil - I'd suggest soy bean oil, but others will work - and you can use all mango butter or a combination of mango and shea for the green tea butter. (I just had it around the house and liked it.) To make this lighter, you can use an ester or fractionated coconut oil for the oil amount. If you don't want to use lanolin, then remove it and use an other oil or butter in its place.

Join me tomorrow for lotion bars with lecithin and lanolin!


cspurlock said...

Can you substitute out the lecithin for something else??
Thanks, Jen

cspurlock said...

I was thinking over my post from yesterday...Could I sub in glycerin for the lecithin? The reason, I don't have any lecithin on hand, but glycerin I do have. Thanks!! Also, for the lanolin, could I sub it for Jojoba Oil?? Thanks much!! I love reading your blog, LOTS & LOTS of information. It's my go to for info! OH!! && I recently, started making my own lotion! I'm sooo proud & guess what...it was sooo EASY!! I couldn't believe how easy it was. I did have a bit of a hiccup using stearic acid, as it made my lotion gritty, but I figured out a different order of addition & now that particular recipe comes out sooo creamy. :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

You could substitute the lecithin for another oil based ingredient, but it is really nice in this recipe. You can't substitute glycerin in this recipe - glycerin is water soluble and won't mix in without an emulsifier. You can use jojoba oil for any ingredient in this recipe, but not glycerin.

How are you adding ingredients into your lotion? It should be heated water phase, heated oil phase, and cool down phase - how are you doing it? If you have heated your lotion properly, you should have no problem with grittiness with any ingredients.

cspurlock said...

Thanks Susan! I guess I'll have to order up some lecithin to try it out. As for the stearic acid, I was following a recipe that said to add oils to boiling hot water, well...boiling hot can mean a range of temperatures. Since they didn't clarify what "boiling hot" meant in terms of a temp range, I figured 120-140 C was hot enough. Unfortunately, it was hot enough to dissolve the stearic acid. Since I had never used that particular ingredient before I figured I would add it to the hot water to dissolve first & then add to my oils, polawax, etc. Mix to emulsify the water & oil phases. Cool down to ~40deg C to add in preservatives, fragrances, etc. This method turned out better than before, meaning no grit.