Thursday, May 6, 2010
Replicating Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser for all skin types
Ingredients: Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Stearyl Alcohol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben.
We have very low levels of surfactants, and one that is considered the most irritating of what we have available to us. But these are tempered by the inclusion of the fatty alcohols - and the fact that there's probably only 5% or less SLS in the product. (I'm basing this on the level of humectant and its position on the list.) Let's take a look at the ingredient list...
Cetyl alcohol: This is an emollient that will offer oil free moisturizing. Low comedogenic potential.
Propylene glycol: A humectant. Could be substituted with glycerin, sodium lactate (which will rinse off, so it's kinda pointless), honeyquat, or panthenol.
Sodium lauryl sulfate: An alkyl sulfate surfactant, considered to be the most irritating in the ones I profiled earlier this month. If we wanted to duplicate this, we'd could use any surfactant we wished - any of them will be less irritating, but some
Stearyl alcohol: Another fatty acid and emollient with low comedogenic potential.
Methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben: Our preservatives.
So how could we duplicate this? First off, I'd want to choose a different surfactant: SLS is never my first choice. We could use SCI - that would be very creamy and nice with or without stearic acid - or we could use something like C14-16 olefin sulfonate for oily skin, SMC taurate for dry skin, and anything else for normal skin. Since our goal is not to be foamy and the foam will be dampened down by the inclusion of all these fatty alcohols, I think I'll go with SCI without stearic acid for normal to oily skin and SCI with stearic acid for dry skin.
I don't have stearyl alcohol and I'm not really sure where to get it, so I'm just using cetyl alcohol. So let's take a look at a possible duplication here.
A Croda recipe I've seen suggests 1.5% surfactant with 1.5% cetyl alcohol and 1.5% stearyl and ceteareth-20 with other emollients like water soluble oils and stearic acid. So if I start with 5% cetyl alcohol, I should be able to get all that emolliency out of the cetyl alcohol.
TRYING TO DUPLICATE CETAPHIL GENTLE SKIN CLEANSER
84% to 84.5% water
5% cetyl alcohol
5% SCI (with or without stearic acid)
5% humectant of choice (honeyquat, propylene glycol, glycerin)
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
Note: If you're using SCI without stearic acid, you might need to include a little Crothix to thicken this up. Let it come to room temperature, then add liquid Crothix at 0.5% and mix well. If you want to add more, add it at 0.5% per time until thickened properly.
That's pretty much it. I admit I'm having trouble not throwing in my film formers and extracts and proteins and panthenol and everything else, but duplication is duplication!