Water phase: We can keep the water phase pretty much the same - with one exception. We really should include a cationic polymer like polyquat 7 or honeyquat. (Honeyquat is also a humectant, so it's a bonus ingredient!)
Why didn't I include a cationic polymer in the dry skin moisturizer? I didn't really think about it. This would be a great inclusion in any facial moisturizer for any skin type. So modify yesterday's recipe with 3% honeyquat or polyquat 7 in the water phase and remove 3% of your liquids.
Oil phase: Again, you'll want to choose really moisturizing oils with linoleic acid (if you have a damaged skin barrier) or oleic acid for extra moisturizing. Choose oils with great phytosterols (anti-inflammatory) and anti-oxidant levels, like cranberry, pomegranate, or sea buckthorn oil (I hate writing sea buckthorn oil as I know that annoying man from that annoying company will post something hoping for free advertising in the comments, but it really is an awesome oil). Pomegranate oil is showing great promise in reducing the destruction of collagen, which is a real benefit to wrinkled skin.
You can even choose something like rice bran oil - nicely balanced for oleic and linoleic acid, and it contains a polyphenol called ferulic acid, which might help with the appearance of skin aging and age spots, or soy bean oil, which is a fantastic moisturizing oil with a lot of Vitamin E.
A quick note on carrot tissue oil: It contains ß-carotene, which is the precursor to Vitamin A, which may help with sun damaged skin. It may make your face more orange, so consider using it at no more than 2% to 5% in a lotion.
We'll keep our emulsifier and thickener the same, although you could use BTMS if you are using a greasier oil or like a drier moisturizer.
Cool down phase: This is where it gets exciting for wrinkled skin! We know that AHA is great for sun damaged or wrinkled skin, so we can include it in the cool down phase. Start at 0.5% and see how your skin reacts. (And if you're using a cleanser and toner with AHA, you don't want too much, right?) You can use something like Multifruit BSC as your AHA at up to 3% in the cool down phase. I'd suggest starting at 1% to see if your skin can handle it.
And we want some extracts in here. Green tea extract at 0.5% in the cool down phase (or the liquid at 5% in the water phase) is a great addition, as would be grapeseed extract. Both of these contain proanthocyanidins and proanthocyanins, which play a role in the stabilization of collagen and maintenance of elastin in our skin. Grapeseed is more astringent than green tea extract, so choose what works for your skin best. Both are good anti-oxidants, but let's include some Vitamin E to really increase the anti-oxidizing power!
We'll keep our hydrolyzed protein - choose what you like - and the panthenol. And, of course, our preservative.
Let's take a look at this moisturizer!
MODIFIED MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN
20% aloe vera
20% lavender or other hydrosol
3% cationic polymer like polyquat 7 or Honeyquat
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
12% oils of choice
4% e-wax or Polawax
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% grapeseed extract
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
up to 3% AHA in the form of AHA powder or Multifruit BSC (remove 3% from the water phase)
Let's say you have oily wrinkled skin - what are you to do? Join me tomorrow to formulate an oily skin moisturizer!