If you have wrinkled skin, feel free to add AHA in the form of the powder (start at 0.5% to 1% if you aren't sure how your skin will react) or as Multifruit BSC or Phytofruit at 3%, if you don't have it in a moisturizer or toner you'll use after this cleansing product. You have the cationic polymers and humectants your skin likes in here, so this is suitable for your skin type.
CREAM CLEANSER FOR DRY SKIN
20% cocamidopropyl betaine
25% BSB or SMC or SMO Taurate
10% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
6% stearic acid
5% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
0.5% extract of choice
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
Weigh the SCI, stearic acid, and cocamidopropyl betaine in a container and put into a double boiler until it is well melted. In a second container weigh the rest of the ingredients except the Crothix, preservative, and extract and heat in a double boiler.
When the SCI is completely melted, mix the two containers together and put back to heat, stirring well but not too vigorously until you can see it is incorporated.
Remove from the heat and stir. When it reaches a temperature of 45˚C, add the preservative and Crothix and stir well. Put into jars and let cool.
Why are using these ingredients for this product? SCI is a great surfactant for dry skin and feels really lovely and creamy. Plus it turns it into a creamy product instead of a liquidy product. The cocamidopropyl betaine is the best solvent for melting SCI, plus it increases mildness. BSB is a great blend of surfactants suitable for very mild cleansing. If you're using SMO or SMC taurate, it will feel even more creamy and conditioned on your skin. Stearic acid is our moisturizer and it works very well with SCI.
I've included the C12-15 alkyl benzoate, stearic, and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate as my moisturizing and re-fattening ingredients. You can use a light oil for the C12-15 alkyl benzoate (like fractionated coconut oil, shea oil, or any of the high linoleic acid oils like sunflower, soybean, apricot kernel, sweet almond, borage, and evening primrose oils or other speciality oils in its place) and you can use cocamide DEA in place of the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. If you don't have cocamide DEA or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, feel free to add more light oil, another type of light oil, or just leave it out.
I've used the honeyquat and glycerin as humectants and film formers here. I didn't use my hydrolyzed protein because I was out of it at the time. Feel free to use a hydrolyzed protein here at 2% to 5% (for very very dry skin) in the heated phase.
I've included Crothix, even though we really don't need it to make this creamy, because it is a good re-fattener and anti-irritant ingredient.
If you want, feel free to add some exfoliating ingredients to this cleanser.
This is most definitely a dry skin product. Normal skin might find it a bit too moisturizing and oily skin will not appreciate it at all! So let's modify it tomorrow!