Thursday, February 4, 2010

Rosemary extract: Hair care products

Rosemary is a good addition to hair care products, what with the claims of increased blood circulation and the ability to form a thin oily barrier on your skin or scalp, and with the claims rosemary can control sebum production. So let's make a few hair care products that might be useful for someone with oily hair - that'd be me! - or a dandruff prone scalp.

There are a few ways to get the awesome power of rosemary in a shampoo. You could use rosemary hydrosol at 10%. You can use liquid rosemary extract at the rate suggested by the supplier. You can use powdered rosemary extract in the cool down phase. Or you can add rosemary essential oil as the fragrance oil in the cool down phase.

I am including each of these in the recipe below. You wouldn't necessarily include all of these rosemary based ingredients, so if you don't have the hydrosol, use water. If you have the powdered and liquid extract, choose one or the other. And you can include the essential oil blend with any of the other types of rosemary extracts.

15% Bioterge 804
15% DLS Mild or LSB
35% water
10% rosemary hydrosol
10% Amphosol CG (for all hair types)
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed oat protein

0.5% powdered rosemary extract or 0.5% CO2 rosemary extract
2% panthenol
2% dimethicone or condition-eze 7
2% essential oils
up to 2% Crothix
0.5% Germall Plus or 1.0% Germaben II
1% fragrance or essential oil - I use a blend of equal parts rosemary, sage, cedarwood and lemon or lime for my oily hair blend.
Colour, if desired

We'd use our rosemary based ingredients in either the water phase - in the case of the hydrosol - or the cool down phase - in the case of the essential oil, powdered, or liquid extract - when including it in a conditioner. If you want to make a liquid or intense conditioner, just add it when appropriate at the right amounts (wow, that was helpful, eh?) Here's an example...

OILY HAIR CONDITIONER - defrizzing, conditioning, moisturizing without oils
69% water
10% rosemary hydrosol
2% cromoist

2% cetyl alcohol

2% panthenol
2% cetac
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
0.5% powdered or CO2 extracted rosemary extract
1% fragrance or essential oils -- oily hair blend - equal parts rosemary, clary sage, cedarwood, and lemon

If you want to make a solid conditioner, you'll want to use the oil based extracts or dissolve the powdered extract into the panthenol or cationic emulsifier before adding it to the mix. (We aren't using water in the solid bar, so we have to find another way to dissolve it!) If you want to make a leave in conditioner, add the hydrosol in the heated water phase, add the powdered or CO2 extract in the cool down phase, or add the essential oils in the cool down phase.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with rosemary in body care products!


Anonymous said...

I've heard that rosemary has the potential to dye hair darker? Is this true?

I was wondering if you would be tackling the subject of hair coloring with dye (natural or commercial types)?

Now that I'm in the position of having 15% gray hair, it's becoming a subject of more and more interest to me. :)

I'd like to know what makes a good dye versus a bad dye. Especially in the areas of hair damage. I know some short haired women don't have to worry about the damage because they will be cutting it out soon enough. But with very long hair, it would damage hair.

Are there any "hair safe" dyes out there that we can use?

What exactly are the chemicals they use in them? And what's up with the PPD (sp?) issue I keep hearing about?

As you can tell I'm as lost as a goose in a fog about the subject and was hoping you could help me to understand the issue better.

So that I could either make an educated purchase of a more Hair "friendly" type, or even make my own.

Thank you! :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I've heard that using something like rosemary tea can darken your hair - the same way chamomile can lighten your hair - but the extract or essential oil shouldn't do this.

I will be doing a series of posts on hair and various hair products around the middle of May. A quick summary - hair dying of any sort is damaging to your hair strands. Even temporary dyes can make them swell up, which means they are brushing against each other more often, which leads to more friction damage.

Can you clarify what the PPD issue might be? I've never heard of it.

I won't be making suggestions on how to make your own hair dye. It's one thing to make a shampoo you don't like; imagine making a hair dye you don't like and have to live with for months, or a dye that does serious damage to your hair. It's a really complicated process.

Anonymous said...

For PPD:

I see your point about not making your own hair dye! Hadn't thought of it like that before. :)

Looking forward to your series in May on hair.

Since all hair dye is bad for your hair does that include henna?

Also, is the dye damage the equivalent of wind and sun kind of damage or worse?

Is there any way to prevent dye damage or minimize it?

Thanks! :)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Whenever you do something like coat your hair strands in something that increases the friction between the strands - temporary hair dye, henna, salt, sea water, and so on - there is potential for damage. One of the main ways hair is damaged is through friction (that's mechanical damage), and when the hair strands don't move smoothly against each other, there is damage. So if you put henna on your hair and the hair strands don't move smoothly against each other, you are likely to see damage unless you do something to reduce the friction like using conditioning agents, silicones, and quaternary polymers or compounds. (I know a lot of people like to use sea salt sprays, but the body they offer comes from the swelling of our hair, which means the strands are encountering more friction, which is not good.)

Damage by weather - your hair whipping around - is mechanical damage. Damage by the sun is a chemical process. They are different types of damage.

I will go into more detail about these kinds of questions when I get into the posts about hair - scheduled to start May 13th. I won't be able to answer your questions in depth until then, but do keep them coming!

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for the information.

I'm sorry I didn't make it clear that I wasn't really expecting an answer here, I was just hoping when you did your May blog entries they could be addressed.

But thank you for your answer. :)