Friday, February 5, 2010

Rosemary extract: Anhydrous products

Rosemary extract offers anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties, which makes it perfect for anhydrous balms, unguents, and ointments. Because we will be looking at anhydrous products, we can't use rosemary hydrosol without some kind of emulsifier, and the powdered extract will be a little harder to include. For the most part, if you want to use rosemary extract in a non-water based creation, you'll want to use the essential oil or CO2 extracts - anything requiring water won't blend in well, and will leave you with separation or some kind of weird thing that comes to the surface and makes the creation look really weird!

An unguent is a "soothing preparation spread on wounds, burns, rashes, abrasions or other topical injuries (i.e. damage to the skin). It is similar to an ointment, though typically an unguent is less viscous and more oily. It is usually delivered as a semi-solid paste spread on the skin and is often oily to suspend the medication or other active ingredients." Like a salve. I've just always wanted to use it in conversation...

A great way to make a fast and easy anhydrous bar including rosemary is to take the basic recipe for a lotion bar (click here...) of 33% wax, 33% butter, 33% oil, 1% Vitamin E, and include either the CO2 extract at 0.5% or the essential oil at 0.5% to 1%, removing 1% from the wax phase (I find this is the easiest way). Don't include it when your pot is simmering in the double boiler or melting away in the microwave - include it when you include your Vitamin E, when the mixture is cooling down.

You can find the winter facial lotion bar here, and the summer time foot lotion bar here.

Again, you can make a basic whipped butter (click here) of about 80% butter, 18% oil, 1% Vitamin E, and 1% fragrance or essential oil and add 0.5% CO2 extract or 0.5% to 1% essential oil as you whip it. Remove the 0.5% to 1% from the butter to make it 79% to 79.5% butter.

A solid scrub bar would be the perfect product for the inclusion of rosemary! Just remove 0.5% to 1% from the butters and add it during the cool down phase (or cooler down phase, as is the case with most oil based things...we have to pour them before they get solid, so there really isn't a "cool down phase" as such...)

An oil based spray is another other ideal delivery system for oil based rosemary extract! Just remove 0.5% to 1% from the oil of your choice, and you've got yourself a party!

You can use rosemary in a facial serum for the awesome anti-oxiding and anti-inflammatory power. The astringent qualities would be great for someone with oily skin, and there are some suggestions rosemary might be an effective UV protectant (again, don't make this claim without testing!) It can increase skin's surface blood circulation and may help restore collagen and elasticity. It would be good for someone with dry skin, but you might want to start at 0.5% and work to 1% if you aren't a fan of the drier feeling.

Because a facial serum is oil based, you'll have to choose either the CO2 extract or essential oil I'm thinking the essential oil might not be the best choice for a facial application - it may be too strong a scent to have all day!

Click here for the oily, break out prone facial serum recipe. Click here for the dry skin version.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with rosemary extract in oil in water lotions!

1 comment:

Marie said...

Thank yu so much for this information. I have psoriasis so am going to try some rosemary in my formulations for the anti-inflamatory benefits it brings.