Thursday, March 4, 2010

Chrysanthemum extract: Let's formulate!

Chrysanthemum extract can offer good burn and wound healing, so it can be used as a great ingredient in water based salves or ointments.

We do not want to use comfrey root in this recipe - it can sting open wounds and cuts, so that's generally a bad a idea!

Let's take a look at modifying the zinc oxide cream from this post.

If our goal is to help soothe and heal wounds (not a claim, remember!) we want to modify this recipe to include some oils and butters that will occlude the skin and help it heal. We have the chrysanthemum extract in there to help, but we could include some shea butter - a great occluding ingredient filled with polyphenols to help heal wounds - and sea buckthorn oil - a great burn and wound healer. Also consider something like pomegranate oil or macadamia nut oil - both offer great features as well, although they are a little drier than sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil is definitely a lot cheaper than the other two!

With switching the shea butter for castor oil, we will get a thicker cream, but that's not a bad thing when you need something to stay in one place! If you want it thinner, then I'd suggest leaving out the shea butter and going with pomegranate-macadamia nut, macadamia nut-sea buckthorn, or sea buckthorn-pomegranate oil (or some combination I've left out) or just choose one oil and go with 15% of it.

5% emulsifying wax
3% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (cetyl will be glidier!)
5% shea butter
10% sea buckthorn oil (or macadamia nut or pomegranate or some variation thereon)

65.5% distilled water (or hydrosols and aloe vera, if you want)
3% humectant of choice - honeyquat, glycerin, hydrovance
2% cationic polymer
2% hydrolyzed silk (or other hydrolyzed protein)

1% Vitamin E
2% panthenol
0.5% chrysanthemum extract
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice (I use 0.5% Germall Plus)

20% oil or water soluble zinc oxide (add all the ingredients, and when you've added the cool down phase mix it well, then add the zinc oxide until it is well blended!)

(Yes, I know this doesn't add up to 100% but 120% - that's because I didn't factor in the zinc oxide. I realize it's my mistake...)

Join me later today for some ideas on combining extracts, and tomorrow for a facial moisturizer recipe!


Paige B said...

I suffer from frequent, chronic body aches, muscle pain, and insomnia, so I made a nighttime body butter to try and give me some relief. I have come across numerous oils, extracts, essential oils, etc. that may be helpful in this regard. Additionally, I read that muscle pain and insomnia could be related to low magnesium, which is readily absorbed by the skin. I thought I would share the recipe.

Heated oil
15% Kpangan Butter
5% Coconut Oil
3% Pomegranate Oil
3% Argan Oil
3% Maracuja Oil
5% LotionPro
3% Behenyl alcohol

Heated Water
23% distilled water infused with St. John's Wort
10% magnesium oil
8% aloe liquid
3% magnesium glycerin*
2% sodium lactate
2% colloidal oats
2% St. John's Wort extract/tincture
1% allantoin
0.5% chrysanthemum extract

Cool Down
2% ginger extract WS
2% panthenol
2% green tea extract OS
2% arnica essential oil
2% pain relief essential oil blend*
1.5% Optiphen plus

I chose Kpangan butter, from the African butter tree, based on it's traditional use as a muscle and arthritis pain reliever. This may be because it high in stigmasterol, thought to work as a topical anti-inflammatory. The liquid oils are thought to also have properties that can help with pain. Coconut oil can act as a penetration enhancer with it's myristic acid.

Magnesium oil is just a commercial spray product made by dissolving magnesium chloride in purified water - so not an oil at all. Magnesium glycerin is something I made by supersaturating glycerin with solid magnesium chloride flakes. St. John's Wort is thought to be useful as a topical pain reliever. The powder I have is a bit gritty if just dissolved in water, so I boil distilled water, add the powder, then strain it through a sterilized gold mesh coffee filter. Ginger is warming, which can be helpful for muscles, and green tea is my panacea addition; also a good anti-inflammatory. Arnica essential oil must be used as directed, and never on broken skin, but is a well-known ingredient in pain relieving and healing balms and salves. The essential oil blend I used is Deep Blue from DoTerra, but there are a number out there, most containing helichrysum EO, and often (among others) chamomile, ginger, mint, blue tansy, etc; all EO's that may help with pain. You just have to take care at what concentration you use EO's, so read labels and check with suppliers.

This definitely has a medicinal scent (from the Deep Blue EO), but it's not unpleasant. It's meant to be used at night so for me that's not a big issue. My dad actually loves the smell. The butter itself is a tan/light brown from the St. John's Wort. LotionPro gives a reliable emulsion and the behenyl alcohol is drier feeling to offset a greasier emulsifier (than say BTMS). It can be a teensy bit stickier than something you might want to use during the day because of the relatively high glycerin (especially if your extracts are also in glycerin), but again, it's used at night, so less of an issue.

I make no claims that this will heal your ills, but I've found it helpful.

Janine said...

Comfrey does not 'sting' open cuts or wounds. It has allantoin in it, among other good things, that is a skin protectorant and regenerates cells. It does not, nor ever has, 'stung'

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

My experience - and the experience of quite a few of my friends - has been that it stings. But more importantly, we aren't to use it on open wounds. This isn't to say it doesn't contain lovely things that help our skin, but that it is not a good idea to use it this way. Loads of lovely natural things contain loads of really great compounds, but that doesn't mean they can't sting or cause a reaction in someone's skin.

University of Maryland