Friday, January 29, 2010

Green tea extract: Formulating with camellia oil and green tea butter

We've taken a look at camellia oil, so let's start by taking a quick look at green tea butter. What exactly is it?

Green tea butter is not a true butter - it is the extract mixed with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and/or oils to give it a butter type consistency. For instance, at, Karen carries matcha green tea butter (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder). This seems to be the most common INCI for green tea butter...I think it is Biochemica's matcha green tea butter (click here for data sheet). The suggested use is up to 10% in our various creations.

Green tea butter contains all the goodness we've come to expect from green tea - the caffeine, the proanthocyanins, the tannins, the anti-oxidants - in a butter form. You'll also get the benefits of using an oil like sweet almond oil, with all its fatty acid goodness, and a hydrogenated butter, giving us lovely moisturizing and softening.

So why use green tea butter? Because it's a fantastic way to get the goodness of green tea into an anhydrous creation like a lotion bar or whipped butter! For a lotion bar, you can just add 10% green tea butter in place of the mango or shea or whatever you'd normally use, or you can substitute it for some of the oil at 10% (which will give you a harder bar because you're removing some of the liquidy bits...)

28% beeswax
10% fractionated coconut oil
25% sunflower oil
3% rice bran oil
20% mango butter
10% green tea butter
2% IPM
2% cyclomethicone
2% vitamin E
1% fragrance or essential oil

I've removed 10% of the mango butter and added 10% green tea butter. This will be a slightly drier bar than if I used shea butter. If you want it more greasy, use shea and add 10% green tea butter to that. You could get all green tea happy and substitute 10% of the sunflower oil for camellia oil. Camellia oil is a drier feeling oil than sunflower oil, so you'll get a drier bar!

For a whipped butter, you can start with a basic recipe and just substitute 10% of the butter with green tea butter. Add 10% camellia oil to the oil portion and you have a green tea polyphenol extravaganza going on!

Let's take a look at using these butters and oils in hair care products! Why use it for hair? We love the fatty acids found in camellia oil and green tea butter for our hair - oleic acid is very softening - and we love the polyphenols found in those products for anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV protection. First, an intense conditioner then a conditioner bar....

7% Incroquat BTMS
3% Incroquat CR
4% camellia oil
4% green tea butter
3% cetyl alcohol
2% panthenol
2% humectant - honeyquat, glycerin, sodium lactate
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
2% hydrolyzed protein
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
67.5% water
(optional: 2% cetrimonium chloride - add to the oils phase, remove 2% in the water phase)
If you don't like silicones, then add 4% more water to this recipe or add more light weight oils.

Weigh out the BTMS, CR, oils, and cetyl alcohol in a heat proof container, then put into a double boiler. Weigh out the water and humectant in a heat proof container, and put that into the double boiler. Heat and hold at 70C for 20 minutes. Pour the contents of one container into the other, and mix well with a hand mixer or stick blender. When the temperature reaches below 45C, add the silicones, protein, essential or fragrance oil, and preservative. Spoon into a jar and let cool with the lid off so we don't get condensation.

60% Incroquat BTMS
10% cetyl alcohol (you can use stearic if you want a harder bar, but it's going to be draggy!)
10% green tea butter
5% camellia oil
3% condition-eze 7, honeyquat, or other cationic polymer
2% hydrolyzed protein (I'm using cromoist)

2% panthenol
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% fragrance or essential oil (I'm using my oily hair blend of equal parts cedarwood, sage, rosemary, and lime)

If you like this recipe, consider modifying a shaving bar to include 10% green tea butter. I wouldn't include camellia oil in this recipe - it's far too dry for this application, and we need glide here!

Hope you've had fun formulating with green tea. Join me tomorrow for more fun with polyphenols!


Meaue said...

This has been so much fun learning about green tea! Many of the questions I have been harboring have been answered!

More Cowbell said...

What timing! I was just looking at this on another site and wondering what the "hydrogenated vegetable oil" is. Do you know? Are we talking Crisco??? :)

It seems to also have sweet almond oil, so what hydrogenated oil is so firm that it can incorporate that and still qualify as a butter? And why am I obsessing over this?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hey, More Cowbell (great name!) I've written a post on this topic - find it here.

Susan said...

Found this post by accident...wondering if we could make our own green tea butter using say a whipped coconut oil?...or a soy butter for example?

AnyaAlden said...

Hello Susan,
Boy do I love your blog! Thank you for writing it!
My question: if I heat the hydrogenated oils I have here, will they firm up with the same lovely texture?
I ruined a pricey batch of butters, not sure if I added too much oil, not enough wax, or if it was the heating of the hydrogenated butters.
I'd like to heat them and not add anything this round, for ease of getting into the jar.
Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI AnyaAlden! Sorry, but it's hard to say without knowing the ingredients you're using. I know with things like shea-aloe or aloe-coconut, it can separate when you heat it.