Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Green tea extract: Formulating with powdered extract

There are a few ways we can get the awesome power of green tea extract into our creations - powdered green tea extract, liquid green tea extract, and green tea butter or camellia oil. Today we'll take a look at using the powdered extract!

You can add green tea extract to any creation containing water. To use the powdered extract, we need to first dissolve it in warm water. You can take a little bit of water out of the water phase, mix in the extract, then add it back during the cool down phase. Typical use is 0.5% to 1% in the cool down phase.

It's very simple to add green tea extract to a very watery creation like a toner, summer spray, and so on. Dissolve it and add to the cool down phase. (Click here for my recipe for toner, winter itchy leg spray, and summer fun spray.)

Adding green tea extract to your lotions is just as simple - 0.5% to 1% in the cool down phase after you've dissolved the extract. Try it in a facial moisturizer, an oil free facial moisturizer, body lotion, or hand lotion.

If you're a fan of mineral make-up, you can include it at 0.5% to 1% in foundations (translucent and opaque base), blushes, and other powdered creations, like finishing powders or concealers. I generally add it at the same amount as the allantoin. As these are dry products, you can just add the extract in and grind it with the rest of the ingredients. If you are making something like a liquid foundation (oil free, light coverage, and medium coverage), add it as you would for a lotion.

3 tbsp treated serecite mica
1 tsp micronospheres
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay (for oil control, optional)
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk
1/16 tsp or 2 scoops allantoin
1/16 tsp or 2 scoops powdered green tea extract

Place all the ingredients in a grinder (except the micronospheres) or all the ingredients in a bag (including the micronospheres). If you are using a grinder, blend together until all the ingredients are well mixed, then add the micronospheres and blend together in a bag or other non-grinding mixing device. If you are using a bag, squish until the ingredients are well blended. Put into container. Use. Enjoy.

There really is no limit to adding powdered green tea to your products. Join me tomorrow for formulating fun with liquid green tea extract!


Aïcha Sebaa said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Aïcha Sebaa said...

I love matcha green tea powder! Can this be used in lotion bar recipes?

elianasf1 said...

Where can I purchase green tea extract (I want to add it to lotions for my face) I want 8 oz of lotion to be 2% green tea, and obviously I'd like whatever extract I use to be potent and chemically in-tact! Tips?
Thanks and Cheers

T. said...

Is it important for some reason to avoid heating the extract? I ask because I would prefer to add it to my cream along with the rest of the water, which is heated.

Me said...

HI Susan,
This is an old post, so I hope you find it. I posted about my failed toner a little while ago (which you kindly answered) and on the The Dish. Some of the responses that I got on The Dish scared the bejeezus out of me as far as using botanicals and all the ickies that they can create.
The thread is called 'Help with toner fail'.
It was suggested that if you use powdered green tea extract, to include a chelating ingredient (ascorbic acid, disodium EDTA or a combination of these with Grape seed extract).
If I use some, or all of these I'm told that I should still expect a short shelf life.
So my questions long could I consider my toner 'safe' to use? I'm thinking my toner would be used up in a month or 2, but would like to know for things like body butters, etc. If I don't use a chelating ingredient could I still get away with a couple of months for my toner at least? And will I be able to tell when it's 'off'? After all, germies don't just show up in one day, as I'm sure mould spores would be in a lotion before we can see them.
Oh, and does tis apply for anything organic, such as colloidal oatmeal, exfoliating seeds etc?

I've also seen extracts sold in butylene glycol or glycerine, but that's a post for another day, this is long winded enough--sorry ;)
Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated because I'm really interested in using botanical extracts in some of my products.


Kim said...

Do powdered ingredients i.e. allantoin, plant extracts, vitamins still retain their skin benefits when not dissolved in water? Can powdered ingredients not dissolved in water enter the skin? Is there any benefit to adding powdered ingredients to makeup and other powder applications?

Betti said...

I'd like to add green tea botanical extract ( to a clay mask that is made of only dry ingredients(clays, powdered plants).

What do you think about this?

This powdered mask will be activated with water. Will the green tea dissolve?


Betti said...

Here is my email!

Alana said...

I want to know more about dissolving powders in water to add after the lotion is created. I want to make a face cream with 10% kojic acid, 10% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 4% alpha arbutin, and 1% glutathione. How much water should I remove from the water phase (my water phase is 45.5%) to dissolve all these powders? Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Alana. Your water phase is very low. If you're making a lotion, you'll need a water-in-oil emulsifier to make this work. And you can't really lower this any more. We generally remove 1:1 for each ingredient added, but this would take you down to 20.5% water, and that isn't possible. I would encourage you to make a product with more than 51% water, and preferably higher if you're making a facial product as you don't want something really draggy on your skin.

You can't make a lotion then add things like this later. You have to add them during the lotion making process in the appropriate phase.

I have a feeling you're trying to add everything but the kitchen sink into your product, and it's not a good idea. Have you made this recipe before? Do you know if you can include these ingredients together? There are so many variables here, so my only suggestion is to try one at a time and see how it tworks.