Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Why did I buy that again?

It's here! It's here! My order from the Personal Formulator is here! I'm like a kid on Christmas morning, rifling through the styrofoam bits to see what's inside the box! As much as I want to pull everything out and take a look, I have to pause for a moment and look at the receipt - not to make sure it's all there, but to see what I actually purchased.

Do you ever have those moments? You buy something to make a certain recipe, but by the time the box makes it to your front door, you have no idea why you bought it!

Here's my suggestion - when you make your order, print out the receipt. Take a moment to look through each item and write down either the recipe you bought this for or just the reason you bought it! Since my life is a whirlwind of bits of paper with things scribbled on them, I like to copy the receipt into a text or word processor. I copy the links for each item - a data sheet, the original page on the suppliers' site, a recipe or two I like - so I have an idea of why I thought this ingredient was so essential for my crafting fun!

Let's take a look at what's in the box!!! (As a note, I am not affiliated with this company in any other than being a very excited customer.)


Cetrimonium chloride: A cationic quat. I need this for my conditioners to keep my hair tangle free!

Polyquaternium 7: A cationic polymer. They've stopped carrying this at Voyageur, and I need it for my body wash and hair care products!

Ceteareth 20: High HLB emulsifier. I want to do more playing with using the HLB system, and I ran out!

Calendula extract: A botanical extract. I like this in my make-up remover and toners.

Green tea extract: A botanical extract. I want to use this more in toners and other facial products as I've been reading so much about its awesome power!


AMP. I bought this because it's an ingredient in some eye liners and mascaras, and can be used in hair care products. It can be used to adjust pH in cosmetics.

PVP. I bought this because it's a film former and thickener used in hair styling products, eye liner, and mascaras. Used at 1 to 10%.

Myristamine Oxide. This is a cleansing agent, emulsifier, hair conditioner, emollient, foam stabilizer, viscosity booster, and foam booster. I wanted to play with this in body washes to see what conditioning it offers. Use at 5 to 20%.


Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides. Like fractionated coconut oil but this is derived from coconut and palm kernel oils. It's a clear liquid with little to no odor and is oil soluble. (It's an oil, after all!) I bought this because it sounded like a neat ingredient and it's cheaper than fractionated coconut oil. Use ast 5 to 50%.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate. This is an oil like cetyl alcohol (C18) that can be used as you would a normal carrier oil. It's supposed to be good for hair care products without making your scalp too oily, which is why I wanted to try it.

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate. This is a water soluble oil (ester) I can include in surfactant systems to offer moisturizing and lubricity. Use at 2 to 10%.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate. This is a light, emollient ester good for very light lotions and body mists. It's odourless and colourless. Use at 1 to 15%. I want to include this in body washes for more moisturization without serious loss of lather.

Isopropyl Palmitate. Like isopropyl myristate, it's an ester, but this one feels greasier than IPM. It is very light and might be interesting in a body mousse using Amaze XT as a thickener. Typical use is 1 to 5%.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate. Like isopropyl myristate, this is also an ester, and it offers the less greasy feel offered by IPM. I bought this just to play with it and see how it differed. This one was purchased in the name of chemistry - I wanted to play with it and see how it was different than IPM and IPP. Use at 5 to 50%.

Cetearyl Alcohol. This is a fatty alcohol derived from cetyl and stearyl alcohol than can be used to thicken and stabilize formulations. I'll use it in place of cetyl alcohol to see what it feels like and what the differences might be. Use at 1 to 25%.

Cetyl Esters. An emollient ester that can be used as a co-emulsifier, emollient, and thickener like you would use cetyl alcohol. I'll also use this in place of cetyl alcohol in lotions and conditioners just to compare it. Use at 3 to 10%.

Emulsifiers - Since I'm planning to do some serious work with HLB in the next few weeks, I need some emulsifiers!

Laureth-4. A non-ionic solubilizer with an HLB of 9.7. It's used at 1 to 5%. This is mostly for surfactants, but it can be used in lotions.

Oleth-10. Non-ionic surfactant and co-emulsifier with an HLB of 12.4. It works well with unsaturates. Used at 0.5% to 5%.

Glyceryl Stearate. A low HLB emulsifier at 3.6. Good emollient and viscosity builder. It's generally used with polysorbate 20 or ceteareth 20. Use at 1 to 3%. I used glycol distearate and this is supposed to be very similar, but I wanted to see the difference!

Humectants - and you know how much I love my humectants!

Hexylene Glycol. A humectant and delivery ingredient that can keep products from melting in high heat or freezing. Use at 1 to 5%. I wanted to see how this differed from propylene glycol.

Sodium PCA. I've always wanted to try sodium PCA because it is such an effective humectant and won't make you sensitive, like sodium lactate, so it would be interesting at higher levels in body and facial products. Use at 1 to 4%.

I love this box! I don't tend to order on-line much as I have three great suppliers in driving distance near me - and it's always fun to see what's new or smell new fragrances - but I wanted to treat myself with a bunch of stuff I could play with during my two weeks off at Christmas! I can't wait to see what I can make!


Susan said...

Have fun with your new chemicals. We will probably be seeing some more awesome recipes on the blog:)

Anonymous said...

How exciting!

I look forward to many future Blogs with lots of great information on these ingredients.

I can't wait to see how the Sodium PCA works for you in a lotion. I hope that it will stay on through a few hand washings.
I would like to use it because of our Sun-filled arid climate, and it doesn't contribute to phototoxicity.

Thanks to your Blog on Humectants, I learned to use a low percentage of Glycerin or Sodium Lactate in my products for this area before I made them.

Alton Brown + Bill Nye + Crafts = your fun and informative Blog.

Thanks for sharing,

Jacinthe said...

It hapenned to me too!!!! So now, I do like you but in reverse order. I have a spreadsheet in Excel with what I want to buy, from which supplier, with the quantity and the cost. I make totals by supplier with a note regarding when I will buy it. On the side of each ingredient, I write why I want to buy it (to make soap, lotion, lip balm, just to try....). Then I modify the sheet when the products are ordered. It helps me plan my "hobby budget" and make sure I only buy what I really need or really really want to try to have fun with!

Mich said...

Can't wait to see what you come up with!
Let the enabling begin!

Anonymous said...

can i replace Laureth-4 for Laureth-3? I'm trying to do up a oil shower gel & i'm using MIPA –Laureth Sulfate as the suractant...

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. I've written a post about your question - you can find it here.

Melanie said...

Oh my. I have a spread sheet too Jacinthe! I think that might not be a good sign when you have to make a spread sheet to keep track of what you have and all you want to get! I hope I at least make some really awesome Christmas presents!