Monday, December 28, 2009

Heat protecting hair care products - Analysing BioSilk Silk Therapy

Let's take a look at another heat protecting hair care product.

Bio Silk's Silk Therapy contains...
Ingredients: Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, SD Alcohol 40-B, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol,Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Parfum (Fragrance). Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Gamma Methyl Ionone, Citronellol, Lilial, Hydroxy Citronellol, Geraniol, Eugenol

We know about cyclomethicone and dimethicone. (See yesterday's post...)

SD Alcohol 40-B: This is a specially denatured alcohol with the designation by the U.S. ATF 40-B to indicate it has been denatured by denatonium benzoate, the bitterest substance in existence.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate: This is a light, emollient ester good for very light lotions and body mists. It's odourless and colourless. Use at 1 to 15%.

Ethyl ester of hydrolyzed silk: This is an esterified version of a hydrolyzed protein (in this case, silk). Hydrolyzed proteins are film formers and skin conditioners, and great for hair care products. Esters are more oil soluble than their non-esterified beginnings, which means this is a way to get a hydrolyzed protein into a non-water based product! Regular esters are amphoteric - they can be positive or negative in our products - whereas these esters are always positive, or cationic, which means they have a high affinity to our negatively charged hair or skin.

Panthenol: You know I love this stuff. It builds a thin moisture film on the surface of your hair (film former) and makes it shine without oil or greasiness. In addition, it can penetrate the cuticle of your hair and brings moisture to the cortex! This means you get good manageability and pliability of your hair, and it is better able to cope with brushing, wind, and other non-hair friendly things. Finally, it could give your hair more body!

Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben: These are preservatives.

Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Gamma Methyl Ionone, Citronellol, Lilial, Hydroxy Citronellol, Geraniol, Eugenol: These are all aroma fixatives. (Click on the links if you want to read more).

What I don't get about this product is the inclusion of the alcohol as this appears to be an anhydrous product...but I have a theory. The two versions of the ethyl ester of hydrolyzed silk I found were under the brand names Silkpro AS and Promois Silk-A. The latter comes as a 20% solution in alcohol. I have a feeling that is the medium for the ethyl ester and probably not in huge quantities in this product. If we had 5 ml of the ester, we'd have 1 ml of silk protein. So you'd have to list alcohol higher on the list than the ester because you'd simply have more of it.

So what we have in this product are the silicones to protect our hair, C12-15 alkyl benzoate as an emollient, the silk as a conditioning agent and film former, panthenol for shine and strengthening, some preservatives, some fragrance thingies, and alcohol (which I suspect is a side ingredient).

How does this compare to the John Frieda product from yesterday? (Note: I haven't used either of them, so I'm commenting purely on the ingredient list.) I think the John Frieda product has more ingredients intended to condition your hair - the amodimethicone behaves like a cationic polymer - and more ingredients for the strength of your hair - the phytantriol - but leaves out the panthenol, which we know is great for healthy hair. Both have hydrolyzed silk, which is always a good thing. Both add emollients - John Frieda uses mineral oil, BioSilk uses C12-15 alkyl benzoate - and both will give your hair shine. And both are effectively anhydrous products, although there are preservatives in the BioSilk product, which confuses me a little (you don't need it for anhydrous products!) but pleases me in that I'm a fan of preserving well.

Could we make this at home? Again, the big issue is the hydrolyzed silk. I have no idea where to get ethyl esters of hydrolyzed silk, so how do we add this to our products? We can get all the other ingredients, except maybe oil soluble panthenol, to make this product.

If my theory is correct about the alcohol being there only for the silk, then we know there are tons of silicones in this - I'd try 20% dimethicone, 75% cyclomethicone, and 5% other things like panthenol, hydrolyzed silk, and emollients. (I'd go with 2% panthenol, 2% silk, 1% emollient) if I could find oil soluble versions of the panthenol and hydrolyzed silk.

Join me tomorrow for another heat protecting hair care product analysis and download!


Anne-Marie said...

This is great information. Thanks for the breakdown. It's very interesting to think about each ingredient and what it actually does.

Seabuckthorn oil said...

Hi, interesting blog...looking forward for same kind of stuffs... Know about natural acne treatment using seabuckthorn oil...

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Seabuckthorn oil. Did you just use my blog to advertise your products? Hmm, the rules of this site say that if you use my blog to get free advertising, then I get to write a post about the products you sell, analysing the ingredients one by one.

I think this is clearly a violation of my rules...look for the post shortly!

bbird said...

Wow! I am delighted to find this blog. I also write ingredient reviews - for pet grooming products. I'm currently working on one for Pet Silk Silk Sheen finishing spray. You have done the work for me! I will be reading more of this fabulous blog.

I recently confirmed my suspicion that the Pet Silk for pets is made by the same company as the Biosilk line for people - Farouk. The only difference between the Pet Silk Silk Sheen and the Silk Therapy is that the pet product uses phenyl trimethicone rather than dimethicone. This might even be an improvement,

BTW, I have a slightly different theory about the alcohol in these silk/silicone spray products. I suspect that the alcohol is necessary as a solvent for the cylcomethicone to make it thin enough for a fine spray. JMHO, and of course the alcohol could be serving dual functions, and both our theories could be operating here.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi bbird. Interesting theory about the cyclomethicone and alcohol. The cyclomethicone I get is about the thickness of water, and I have no trouble spraying in a 90% cyclo, 10% dimethicone 1000 cs mix in my anti-frizz spray. Having said that, cyclo can stream out and get really annoying, and I wonder if alcohol would help with that nuisance?

I have a question for you, if you don't mind. As you can see from my icon above, I have an adorable dog - a malti-poo named Blondie. Her eyes weep and stain her skin. Do you have any ideas for that? I've seen some products that have hydrogen peroxide, but I worry about putting that close to her eyes.

As a quick note, my leave in conditioner is great for dogs - I use it near Blondie's eyes to get rid of the hard gunk that builds up, and it's great on her coat. She feels so soft! Sometimes I use my anti-frizz spray on her - again 90% to 10% - and she feels soft and less staticky in dry weather!

Anonymous said...

Hi, susan
I have been trying to find how to get all the ingredients. There is apparently a derivative of panthenol called d panthenyl tht is oil soluble. See Type in oil soluble panthenol. Apparently these raw materials are not available on the internet. I will still try to duplicate and will report.

Anonymous said...

I have seen this product represented as "sun-protective", yet you didn't seem to identify any sunscreen among the ingredients. Could you please verify that that is the case? thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I would ask the company directly to identify the ingredients they claim to be sun protective if it doesn't appear there are sunscreen ingredients in it.