Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Facial moisturizer with hemp seed oil

Winter is not a great time for our skin! The cold and wind certainly don't make for soft, moisturized skin, and the low humidity is incredibly drying (although awesome for making my frizzy hair straight and smooth!). I like to make a moisturizer just for the winter months filled with all kinds of wonderful ingredients and oils, but this is suitable for all year round usage!

Hemp seed oil is a great oil to use as the base for a moisturizer. It is filled with linoleic acid to help with moisture retention, reduction of inflammation, and restoration of your skin's barrier properties. The gamma linoleic acid will help with restoring your skin's barrier properties quicker than regular linoleic acid and can reduce itchiness! Because this oil has such a short shelf life, I'm going to add 1% Vitamin E and some chelating ingredients, but I would keep this moisturizer in the fridge and note the best before date as being three months from the date I created it!

Macadamia nut oil is a high oleic oil that will offer softening and cell regenerating properties, as well as some anti-inflammatory properties, and the palmitoleic acid will offer some anti-microbial and wound healing properties.

Both of these are dry oils, so you might want to consider substituting either sweet almond oil or apricot kernel oil for either oil if you want a greasier feeling lotion. Both are high oleic oils, so you will get the skin softening, cell regenerating, and anti-inflammatory properties. Substituting these oils for the hemp seed oil will extend the shelf life to 1 year.

Allantoin is an approved occlusive ingredient, which means we can use it to keep the outside world from damaging our skin. I like to add it at 1% in a moisturizer to increase moisture retention and keep my skin from being horribly chapped. It serves the same function as cocoa butter or dimethicone, but I can't handle either of those on my sensitive skin, so I use allantoin.

Obviously I'll want a humectant in my moisturizer. I'm going to use a hydrolyzed protein for that purpose (I like to use oat protein, but you can choose any you prefer) and I'll add some sodium lactate because it helps with acne. It also helps increase barrier properties and may stimulate ceramide synthesis. You can use glycerin at up to 3% if you want. If you like Hydrovance, use it! It's a great humectant. (I will be playing with sodium PCA over my Christmas holidays, so watch for those posts!)

I'm also adding a cationic polymer to act as a skin conditioner and humectant. I like honeyquat but you could use any cationic polymer you like (or leave it out if you don't have any and increase the water by the appropriate amount).


34.5% water
20% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (I'm using chamomile)
2% humectant (sodium lactate)
3% cationic polymer (honeyquat)
2% hydrolyzed protein
1% allantoin
0.1% EDTA

10% oils - 5% hemp seed oil, 5% macadamia nut oil
4% emulsifying wax (I use Polawax)
2% cetyl alcohol

0.5% to 1% preservative (I use Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%)
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% powdered extracts
1% Vitamin E

You can find the instructions on how to make this lotion in this post!

Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun!


Anonymous said...

Thank you for sharing. Sounds like a lovely moisturizer. I've never thought of Hemp in a facial product but will have to give it a try.

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

I used the recipe above as inspiration for a FACIAL MOISTURIZER For the night.

As I have dehydrated skin I tried to add some moisturizing goodies. I'm using this moisturizer for a few weeks now and I (and my skin) had to get used to it. I need to use a very small amount (pea-size)as otherwise my skin gets too fatty. It does sink in very good thought, it's just the next morning my T-zone is quite oily. Also it is quite liquid. Next time I will use less water/tea. I was adding more tea during making the moisturizer as it took quite some time getting the temperatures ok and I thought a lot of the water/tea was gone because of that. I think there is where I went wrong. Anyway, a good lesson, weight before and add what's lots during heating.

I used 3-phases, hand-whisked the lotion and put it in a lotion-bottle as it is thin enough for that.
I will make it again but with less water and maybe with another oil combination. Also I might add a little bit of eo.

The recipe:
40% water
15% rosewater
10% chamomile-tea
3% honeyquat
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
2% glycerine
2% sodium lactate
1% Aloe-vera 1:10 INCI:Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Gel, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate

10% oils - 5% macadamia nut oil, 3% calendula oil, 2% seabuckthornoil
4% e-wax N 200
2% cetyl alcohol

3% Multifruit BSC
2% hydrolyzed wheat protein
2% panthenol
1% green tea extract
1% preservative

I added a pinch of HyaluronzuurINCI: Hyaluronic Acid