It makes up about 12% of our skin's sebum, so our skin identifies it as "ours" and soaks it up quickly. Squalene is a vital part of cholesterol, steroid, and Vitamin D synthesis in our bodies. It penetrates the skin quickly offering softening and moisturizing to even really chapped or cracked skin. You can use it neat or in a lotion.
But it's highly unstable with all those double bonds. So instead we use squalane, a hydrogenated version with no double bonds that offers us a lot of stability, such as a shelf life of over 2 years!
Squalane has the same great qualities we find in squalene. It can help chapped and cracked skin (in fact, try it neat!), helps prevent UV damage to skin, offers cell regenerating properties, and can be anti-bacterial. Remember, though, you can't make claims about the UV protection or anti-bacterial properties.
Try it in a facial moisturizer (replace the oils in this recipe with squalane and something filled with linoleic acids!) or in an eye cream. It is incredible for a foot lotion for really cracked and and dry feet. And an intense hand lotion or cuticle cream for cracked hands or finger tips would be an ideal application for squalane. In fact, you can substitute squalane for any light oil. The HLB is 12 to 12.9, so if you're using the HLB system to create an emulsifier, you'll have to reformulate for any substitutions (for instance, sunflower oil is 7, so if you exchange that for squalane, you'll have to re-calculate!)
Squalane and fractionated coconut oil in a lotion will give you an amazingly long shelf life - up to 2 years - because there are very few double bonds - if any - in both oils. Both are non-staining and sink in quickly, making it an ideal oil combination for a post shower body moisturizers!
Remember the shelf life of your lotion is only as long as the ingredient with the shortest shelf life. In the body mist below, the shortest shelf life will be the fragrance oils. In a lotion, if you're including things like hydrolyzed proteins and botanical ingredients, the shelf life will be limited to the life of those ingredients.
The down side about squalane - it's kinda expensive. You could make some beautiful lotions and creams with squalane, but as it can cost as much as $10 for 2 ounces, the optimal amount to get all those wonderful qualities is about 10%.
AFTER SHOWER BODY MIST
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance or essential oil
88% fractionated coconut oil, sesame, or shea oil*
These are all non-staining oils so you can combine them how you like.
Mix together all the oils, then pour into a spray bottle. Use liberally after bathing or showering.
Join me tomorrow for fun with rice bran oil!