Saturday, October 24, 2009

Beard conditioner with linoleic acid containing oils

Won't someone please think of the pirates?

Winter is coming, and this means red cheeks and dry, chapped skin. Moisturizers can be a great help, but what about our manly friends with beards? Moisturizers can leave their beards a lank, greasy mess, but the skin underneath needs a little love! We know linoleic acid can help with itchy, dry skin, so it's perfect for a beard conditioner!

This a very light leave in conditioner with moisturizing oils. The BTMS will offer skin and beard conditioning, and the oils will help with occlusion under the beard!

79% water
10% aloe vera juice
3% glycerin
2% btms
3% high linoleic acid oil like rice bran or sesame seed oil*
1% hydrolyzed protein (I like cromoist)
1% Vitamin E
.5% panthenol
.5% germall plus

*You can use shorter life oils, but my experience with men is that they'll keep the product for ever and ever and a day and it'll go rancid. If you have a man who will pay attention to the date on the bottle, you can use shorter life oils.

Heat all ingredients except for the Liquid Germall Plus and panthenol in a double boiler until the product reaches 70C. Heat and hold for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix well. When the product reaches 45C, add the panthenol and germall plus. Package in a spray bottle for ease of use.

If the pirate in your life wants to use it like a lotion, he (or she, if you have some bearded friends!) can pour it into his hands. In this case, you can increase your oils to up to 10% and still see emulsification (remove from the water portion!)

You can include a fragrance here, but it's right under someone's nose, so that might be a little annoying to your intended recipient.

Feel free to substitute other oils, but the BTMS and hydrolyzed protein are essential to this recipe as they offer the conditioning, oil free moisturizing, and occlusion. You could substitute Incroquat CR if you aren't using the oils or cetab if you want to use a different cationic quat. There's no point in putting cetac in this - you aren't looking for detangling (unless you have someone with a really tangly beard, then add 1% and remove 1% from the water).

You can leave out the aloe vera or substitute the water for various hydrosols and more aloe vera if you wish.

Arrr mateys! Have fun!


Anonymous said...

hey swift - what do you mean by "occlusion under the beard?" :)
blackbird from the dish

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

The oils will leave a layer on the beard wearer's skin that will protect it from the outside world. We want to form a barrier on our skin to keep the water in or on our skin from evaporating to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). We only want a light layer in this case as the beard is fairly protective.

For a short post on occlusion, click here.

Anonymous said...

you're quick - thanks for the link. i'm loving your blog. :)

Kristen Froelich said...

So I understand why the linoleic acid helps with the skin under the beard, but what about the actual beard itself? What oils are best absorbed by beard hair? Because it's more coarse and brittle does it need more protein, or moisture?