Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Pressing eye shadows: Liquid binders - denatured alcohol

I thought I dismissed the idea of alcohol far too quickly, so I tried it this morning.

To 1.0 grams of paradise eye shadow I added 20 drops or 0.2 grams of denatured alcohol. I put it into the container as I figured this would be easier. It didn't make as much mess as the dimethicone did, and it mixed really well. This is actually a picture of what it looked like AFTER adding the alcohol. It was dry-ish but still mixed well.

I mixed it for maybe a minute, probably less, and pressed it with the quarter for probably a minute or so. I'm not a big fan of the smell - I really don't like the smell of alcohol - so I'm hoping that will dissipate with time.

I had to dig into it quite hard to get the powder to come away from the bottom. That's a great sign! And the colour was quite nice - although it was still wet 30 minutes later. I've left the cap off the container to see how it stands up to evaporation.

I'm glad I tried this. I didn't like the videos I was seeing on line - they used far more alcohol than I would have liked, creating a really goopy mess. I think the 20 drops (or 0.2 grams to 1 gram eye shadow) is a good amount - it was dry-ish but still pressable. Again, I have to see how it stands up over time, so I will be checking it every day to see if I still like it.

Update: I've had this sitting for a week in my workshop with the container closed. One week later, it's cracked right down the middle and is showing signs of small cracks elsewhere. If the alcohol is evaporating with the container closed, what would happen in an eye shadow container than isn't as air proof? Perhaps I needed to use more alcohol?

The ones done with the dimethicone and fractionated coconut oil are holding up well.

Join me tomorrow for fun with magnesium myristate!


Archer said...

Perhaps add a single drop of jojoba oil to the mix to retain some moisture after the alcohol dries? Jojoba seems to be the go-to oil for makeup, so... just a suggestion.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I did use fractionated coconut oil and dimethicone and three months later they are still fine. I'm not sure how other people do it, but I think the alcohol is too volatile for this application - it evaporates way too fast! Jojoba oil would be a great oil to use - it has a nice long shelf life - but I can't see the point of using jojoba and alcohol together. They wouldn't emulsify in the container, and I think the eye shadow press as well with the jojoba alone.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Judi Hodgkin said...

I've seen people use a combination of oils to bind, and alcohol to set and they've avoided cracks that way.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Thanks, Judi. I have posts on the other binders I used. In all honesty, I like the loose powders, so I haven't really done much experimenting with pressing since these posts. Thanks for the suggestions!

Jordan H. said...

This is in response to Judi Hodgkin,
I have used dimethicone with cyclopentasolane and alcohol to press my eyeshadows and it works quiet well for shimmery shades. I find that cyclopentasolane helps prevent the product from hard panning. I have not tested with matte shades now as I am just learning those.
In some of my trials I even combined a little coconut oil to the mixture as well.
I find that this helps a lot with the slip of the shadow.

As for Susan,
Can you find any reason why mixing all those together would be a bad thing? They seem to work well so far! Love your blog, very informative. <3