If you've never made a lip balm before, you have to check out this page on Majestic Mountain Sage for a basic recipe!
We adapt a lip balm to become a lipstick in a few ways. By choosing our oils carefully, we can make it shinier and more long lasting. We can choose to make a lip shimmer or a lip stick depending upon the extra ingredients we add. And I don't bother adding flavour to a lipstick.
We want to choose oils won't taste horrible, that offer shine, and that will moisturize our lips. We also want an oil that is going to have a good shelf life, and we'll add some Vitamin E to help retard rancidity.
Here's my basic recipe for my favourite lip balm...
8% candellia wax
9% beeswax (I was going to use carnauba, but I ran out!)
18% shea butter
12% mango butter
52% liquid oils
1% Vitamin E
For my oils I chose castor oil because it offers awesome shine (no more than 10%), fractionated coconut oil because it has a long shelf life and is very light, jojoba oil because my skin seems to like it, and squalene because it is light with a long shelf life, and my skin seems to like it. I chose shea and mango butter because I had a ton of it around and, again, my lips seem to like those butters. Although I think my choices have nice long shelf lives, I still included Vitamin E just to be on the safe side.
**Update 2013: I've altered this recipe to reflect that I don't use castor oil in my lip balms. I used to use it, but I'm not a fan of the taste or skin feel. You can use it if you like at no more than 10%. Check out the emollients section of the blog for all the information in various oils and butters. Choose the ones with the qualities you seek in this product. Nowadays I've been using FCO, sweet almond, and rice bran oil and I find it get nice shine from it. Jojoba is so expensive, so I've stopped using it in just about everything, and I didn't have squalane last time. I like my current combination, which just shows how we can play with recipes we love for years and years!
Aloe butter or shea aloe would be a fantastic addition in this lip balm as it is great for your lips and contains a natural humectant. (You'll have to up the waxes if you're using softer butters!) Olive oil would also be great as it is a humectant, but it might taste a tad weird for some people.
You could choose any combination of oils and butters for this lip balm, but make sure they are not horrible tasting and have long shelf lives. And make sure they are solid enough to remain in a lip balm form.
So now I've made my lip balm base - 100 grams is going to make a heck of a lot of lip balm - so now I'm going to try out my colours.
CHOOSING YOUR COLOURS
Always check your micas and pigments to ensure they are lip safe - ultramarine pink, blue, or purple, chromium green, iron oxide blue, and possibly manganese violet are not safe in lipsticks (check your supplier for information on lip or eye safety).
I was quite sleepy and feeling a bit sick the morning I made this red colour and became convinced I'd made poisonous lipstick. When you get any micas or iron oxides or other ingredients, make a point of writing on them if they are lip or eye safe. Turns out my red iron oxide (light) is, in fact, lip safe, but I stressed about it all day!
This recipe is going to give you a sheer shimmer rather than a deep lipstick (join me tomorrow for that), so you're going to want to use vivid colours that might seem a little too much. But if you want any colour, you're going to use a lot of micas and iron oxides to get it to show up on your lips. And I suggest making up a 1 tbsp amount, then putting a bit on a piece of paper or a toothpick, letting it dry, then trying it out. Re-melt it to add more colour or pour into a lip balm container.
These recipes are all for 1 tbsp of base. To get a nice shimmer, you'll want between 5% to 10% colour in your lip balm. This is going to look like too much - it's not.
4 scoops red or red mica (1/8 tsp)
1 scoop white satin mica
(5/32 tsp colour to 1 tbsp base - 5% colour to base )
5 scoops merlot mica
(5/32 /8 tsp colour to 1 tbsp base - 5% colour to base)
It looks like this is quite a dark lip balm, but it's really not! It's going to show a bit of colour, but only a bit...You can increase the amount of colour to 10% (10/32 tsp), but you're still only going to get a shine than a true colour.
If you want more great suggestions for colours, check out the Soap Queen's great posts on creating lip sticks! Here are a few posts I really like...fun summer lip balm and how to fill 50 lip balms at once (if you're really serious about making lipsticks!)
Join me tomorrow to learn how to make your lipsticks more lipstick-y and less lip shimmery.