Friday, August 28, 2009

Using Ronaspheres in emulsions: Liquid Foundations - light coverage

Ronaspheres are ideal for inclusion in emulsions and anhydrous products, so when creating a liquid foundation, these would be your first choice as a filler to offer oil absorbency (ironic, considering you're putting it in oil!) and light refraction in a light to medium coverage foundation. If you want a more medium to heavy coverage foundation, you'll want to include some oil soluble titanium dioxide! (More on this tomorrow!)

(This moisturizer recipe is from the post on facial moisturizers, April 7, 2009, so if you want to know why I'm including the ingredients I'm including, check it out!) You can use any facial moisturizer recipe you like and remove 3% of the oil phase to include the Ronaspheres.

WATER PHASE - you can use 80% water if you don't have the hydrosols and aloe vera
48%% water
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (lavender, rose, and orange are all good for various skin types)
2% humectant of choice (sodium lactate, glycerin, sodium PCA, honeyquat)

5% oils - (modified from 8% to include the Ronaspheres)
4% emulsifier - Polawax, e-wax or BTMS*
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol for the glide

3% Ronaspheres
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
0.5% extract of choice - green tea, chamomile, honeysuckle extract
0.5% extract of choice - a second extract
(The extracts are optional - if you choose to leave them out, then add 1% to your water phase).

Additional: 4% colour blend to create the foundation. I'd start at 1% for someone with light skin and increase it to up to 4% for darker skin.

*Using BTMS will offer a more matte feeling and looking foundation, and will offer extra skin conditioning. It is an excellent choice as an emulsifier in a liquid foundation.

Grind your foundation colour blend while you are heating and holding.

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (Leave out about 1 tbsp of heated water and mix it with your powdered extracts in a shot glass.)

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C. Add your Ronaspheres and mix well to ensure it blends properly and doesn't leave clumps.

5. Let cool to 45C. Add the preservative, hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, extract, and essential oils and mix well with the hand mixer or blender. Add your colour blend at 1% to start, and try the colour on your hand to see if you like it. You can go as high as 10% colour if you have darker skin. Again, mix very well. Let cool.

6. Pour the mixture into a bottle - one with a treatment pump, preferably - and let sit until completely cooled.

Join me for fun with a medium to heavy coverage liquid foundation tomorrow.


Marcia said...

Hi Susan, Thanks SO much for all your work & generosity in sharing it! I've made 2 of your recipes, loved the results & am now hooked. I'd like to try making the liquid foundation, but am unsure of what you mean by "color blend". Is it just a mix of oxides or do I use the color in the mineral makeup base before adding it to the foundation?
Btw-do you have any recipes for a facial serum like the old Charles of the Ritz type? My mother-in-law can't get it anymore & would love to have it again.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan, I would also like to know what you mean by "colour blend", is it the mineral makeup base?

Love your blog!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

A colour blend is the blend of colours you've created to be the colour in this foundation. It consists of iron oxides, micas, and other pigments you want to make up the colour for this product.

Check out the mineral make-up section for more information on colour blends!

Anna said...

I did check out the MMU section which is great! But I think I'm confusing the colour blend with the basic mineral makeup base. I suppose in this formulation we don't need fillers since the lotion will carry the pigments, and the ronaspheres and titanium dioxide are added earlier to offer light refraction, oil absorbency, and opacity, right? So the colour blend here is probably mainly iron oxides. Do you find that you have to modify your blend of iron oxides to match your skin tone in different formulations?