Saturday, August 22, 2009

Mineral make-up: Fun with blush - a translucent base

Blush bases are as variable as the people who wear them. You can make a very simple blush with serecite mica and colour or Micronaspheres and colour or you can make a very complicated one with almost every ingredient I've written about in the last few weeks!

What's the point of a blush? We want some colour that will highlight our cheeks without being too shiny. We want it to stay on all day and not morph its colour.

So we'll want to create a blush base that will...
  • adhere to your skin
  • not morph to a different colour
  • offer a nice amount of shine without being crazy sparkly
  • impart a nice colour
Let's take a look at how to create a very translucent base that will be more of a highlighter than a blush.

TRANSLUCENT BASE (by volume, not weight)
Yes, you've seen this before. It's the translucent finishing powder (Click to see why I'm using what I'm using!)
3 tbsp treated sericite mica
1 tsp micronospheres
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay (for oil control, optional)
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk
1/16 tsp or 2 scoops allantoin

Finished amount: 52.5 ml (dry powder)

Or for someone with dry skin
3 tbsp myristate treated sericite mica
1 tbsp micronospheres
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk
1/16 or 2 scoops allantoin

Okay, so this is the finishing powder I've posted before...why am I posting it as a blush? Because it makes an awesome highlighter mixed with 25% to 50% peach or pink mica. If you want something a little more bronzer-ish, then you might want to use something like paradise sand mica with some brown tones at 25% to 50% (aborigine amber or paradise sand are nice micas). You could even create a fairy dust kind of sparkle by adding 25% to 50% mica of your choice (silver is lovely!)

Note: The 25 to 50% is by volume!

It fulfills all the requirements of a blush in that it will stay on your skin, not morph, and offer some colour. One down side - it will offer a ton of shine because it's filled with micas and sericite mica.

If you're not a shiny girl, but you want a nice sweep of colour, then why not add some titanium dioxide (to whiten it) and micronaspheres (a bit of shine with low to medium coverage) to give you a light to medium coverage blush (as opposed to the light, almost opaque, coverage above)?

Disclaimer: I found the idea for this colour blend from the Cosmetic Formulator, a site which is no longer accessible, except through the wayback machine. Check it out here...

BARELY THERE - warm shade
4 scoops titanium dioxide
3 scoops yellow iron oxide
1 scoop red (light) iron oxide
1/2 scoop ultramarine blue
1/2 tsp Micronaspheres or talc

BARELY THERE - cool shade
4 scoops titanium dioxide
3 scoops yellow iron oxide
1 scoop red (light) iron oxide
1/2 scoop ultramarine blue
12 scoops manganese violet
1/2 tsp Micronaspheres or talc

Mix together in a bag. (If you wanted to make a larger amount, you could do this in a coffee grinder or Magic Bullet, then mix the Micronaspheres in afterwards.) This will make 3/4 tsp blush colour blend (warm) or 1 tsp (cool).

I suggest starting at 25% colour blend to 75% blush base for women with lighter skin to about 40% colour blend for women with darker skin (or who want a more dramatic cheek colour!)

To start at 25% (and this is very light!) you'd want to use 1/4 tsp of this colour blend and add it to 3/4 tsp of your blush base. If you like it, keep it. If not, increase by 1/4 tsp at a time until you reach the colour blend you want. Remember to keep notes!

This does have some shine in it. Although we've left out the micas for colouring, we have sericite mica in the base. If you want something a little less sparkly, join me tomorrow for an opaque base for blush!

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