Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Building a mineral make-up foundation: A translucent base

Finishing powder is a great way to get started on making mineral foundations because you can get a sense how much coverage you want. This is a very light coverage without colour intended to downplay such things as redness or broken capillaries and offer oil control.

We'll be using the following ingredients (and I'll be going into more detail next week about each ingredient if you want to know more)...

Treated serecite: This is a mica treated with dimethicone that offers slip and glide when applying the product, and light reflecting qualities that will give our skin a dewy shine (in a good way).

Micronospheres or silicone spheres: These little spheres absorb oil from your skin. They offer slip and glide to the product as you are applying it, adhesion and colour quality through the day, and they have light reflecting qualities that will "hide" fine lines and pores.

Calcium carbonate or kaolin clay: These will absorb oil from your skin.

Powdered silk: This is a powdered silk protein that will act as a humectant throughout the day. It also feels silky on your skin.

Allantoin: This a good humectant and skin protectant.

FINISHING POWDER (by volume, not weight)
3 tbsp treated serecite mica
1 tsp micronospheres
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay (for oil control, optional)
3/16 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk
1/16 tsp or 2 scoops allantoin

Finished amount: 52.5 ml (dry powder)

Put together in a plastic bag and squish and squish and squish until well blended. Please don't put this into a grinder because it will damage the micronospheres. Use this as you would a foundation to brighten up your skin, control oil, and give yourself a nice dewy glow!

If you add a little colour - you'll have to find the blend that is right for you - to this mixture, you'll get a sheer foundation that will offer a little colour, oil control, and light refraction. To add colour for a foundation, you'll want to start at 10% colour to powder. So for 52.5 ml, you'll want to start with 5 ml or 1 tsp of colour for the total amount. If you have very light skin, you can start at 2 to 5%, so only a few scoops. If you have darker skin, then consider using up to 20%.

As a note, I am still questing for the perfect colour for my skin, so I can't really help you out on how to make a colour blend for your foundation. I'm a chemistry girl - I'm not great with the art part of MMU! Here's a great chart from The Conservatorie as a starting point for making your own colour blends.

MAKE SURE YOU KEEP NOTES so you can make it again. (I would make this line flash if I could!) If you make something you like, you'll want more for yourself and to share with your friends who compliment you on your amazing skin. So please for the love of puppies and bunnies and other adorable things, keep records as you go along.

I give you this warning as we have failed to write things down at times, figuring we'll remember at the end of the squishing. But we don't. I add something, then write it down, add something else, write it down. I know it sounds obsessive, but when you run out of your favourite eye shadow, you'll thank me. (I like to use Post-It index cards, so I can stick them right into my MMU recipe book. I always give everything a name, then label the container as well.)


anonymous said...

Thank you for this info. I am going to try making the powder. Thought I would google on finding serecite mica and micrnospheres but if you have any suggestions I certainly will listen!
Thanks again
Dona Wyant
Atlanta Ga

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Try TKB trading for mineral make-up supplies. Their selection is excellent and their service is fantastic. I don't know if they have Micronaspheres, but they have a few treated serecite micas so make sure you're ordering the one you really want. If you go there, get some pop micas. You won't regret the purchase - they are so easy to blend together to make amazing eye shadows, blushes, glitter powders, and lip sticks! Worth every penny, I'd say! And check out their spoons - they have some really nice plastic spoons in all sorts of sizes!

And no, I'm not paid off by them! I've just had a great experience ordering from them!

Ahelya said...

Thanks for the formula ;)
I'll try it in a few minutes!

And yes, TKB is great for MMU supplies, micas, containers and so many stuffs...and I'm not paid by them either!
I just love what they do, and they do it perfectly ^^

Is their Silica Microspheres the same as Micronaspheres you talking about?

Amaryce Cousins said...

The link to the colour chart isn't working for me. Is there another good place to start?

Bek said...

Hello! This blog has been a godsend for me; I can't wait to try all the recipes and colors!

I had a question about the treated serecite - I ordered the only serecite option that Coastal Scents had available, but I think it may be just plain serecite. I understand the importance of the difference between treated and untreated for eyeshadows, but for the translucent powder is it such a big deal to use untreated serecite? Thanks for providing such great information!