Thursday, July 2, 2009

Making an oil free moisturizer with water soluble oils

If you want to make an oil free moisturizer, why not start with esters or water soluble oils? They have the goodness of oil, but aren't as thick and don't need to be emulsified. I've been playing around with water soluble oils lately, and I am really quite surprised at how much thickening they actually offer!

To create a water soluble oil moisturizer, you want to include our basics - water, humectants, film formers, and so on. What you don't need to include are emulsifiers or thickeners because the water soluble oils and esters are actually emulsifiers on their own (although they are very mild emulsifiers). So we want to include these...
  • water phase - water, aloe, hydrosol - it's really your choice!
  • humectant - glycerin might be too sticky for some people, but I liked it at 3% in my mixture; sodium lactate; or honeyquat
  • panthenol - always good on skin
  • film former - hydrolyzed protein
  • water soluble oil - choose something you like. You can try an ester like PEG-7 olivate or a water soluble oil from your favourite supplier.
I have been fiddling with the oils at 10% and it seems to be working well, so we'll use that as our starting point.

This isn't going to be a white creamy concoction like a lotion would be - mine made with buriti oil is very yellow, so it's mostly going to be the colour of your oils. It shouldn't be ask thick as a lotion - mine is more of a shampoo consistency, but the buriti oil is very thick to begin with.

83% water, aloe, hydrosol
2% sodium lactate or 3% glycerin or honeyquat
10% water soluble oil or ester
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
2% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative

Heat the water, humectant, water soluble oil, and hydrolyzed protein and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Allow to cool then add the panthenol and preservative. When cooled, bottle and enjoy.

As a note, you can kinda do this cold, but it's unwise because of the water. If you are using preserved aloe or hydrosol, you can do this one cold and use mechanical agitation to help with the emulsification. Again, I always recommend heating and holding, but it is an option if you are a practiced preserver.

Have fun! Join me tomorrow to learn about adapting your products for the summer!


Row said...

Hi Susan: We have a interesting situation that we like you to ponder. There are 6 of us that play around with creams lotions etc. Most have what we call "mental jobs" ,one of us is a mechanic who breaks into a sweat on a regular basis. We love oilless moisturizers because most of us roll out of bed in the mornings and we don't have to wait for it to "sink in" or risk staining our cloths. Our mechanic is finding that she prespires differently and has body odor when she uses the oilless lotion when she uses something else the problem goes away. The recipe was "I love Mink".recipe to follow. This weekend we are going to follow your catonic oilless recipe to the "T" so we can eliminate some of those ingredients.

Phase A:
375 grams Purified Water (75%)
10 grams Glycerin (2%)
2.5 grams Allantoin (.5%)
5 grams Anhydrous Caffeine (1%)
2.5 grams Sodium Lactate (.5%)

Phase B:
30 grams Naturemulse™ (6%)
30 grams Oil of Mink Cosmetic Grade (6%)
15 grams Liquid Shea (3%)
10 grams Alkyl Esters (2%)

Phase C:
10 grams Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (2%)
5 grams LiquaPar PE (1%)
5 grams Fragrance or Essential oil of choice (1%)
Substituted preservative used germall plus
Used 5% glycerin and 5% LSC complex (herbarie)
Sorry for the long post but what are your thoughts.Thanks Row

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Row! I love long posts!!!

I don't know much about mink, but I have read it can have a strong, musky smell. Is it possible that's the ingredient your friend doesn't like? You could make this recipe again without that oil and see her reaction.

I wonder, too, about the LSC complex. I know willow bark and my skin don't get along - I get a kind of weird musty smell when I use it.

For non-staining, you could use more esters, fractionated coconut oil, shea oil (which you've already got), and sesame oil. The rest of the ingredients look really interesting - sounds like a nice recipe!

Are you using fragrance or essential oil in this? I wonder if that wouldn't change things for her?

Or try using a sugar scrub or lotion bar in the shower for moisturizing that will sink in by the time you get dressed! (Wow, lots of exclamation marks, eh?)

Link to oil free cationic moisturizer...

This is intended as a facial lotion, but you can turn the oil free cationic moisturizer into a lotion (and thereby thicker) by adding more cetyl alcohol (up to 5%) or some glycerin as a humectant (up to 3%) or add more of those wonderful alkyl esters at up to 5%!

Let us know how it turns out!