Sunday, June 14, 2009

Super extra aloe-y apres sun spray

I had the idea for this recipe after seeing my best friend's husband (and Raymond's best man) burn himself in the summer sun every year. He could use sun screen, but he usually doesn't, and he won't use aloe vera gel because it's too sticky, so this spray would work well for him. (I'm fairly sure he still won't use it, but that doesn't change the reasons I formulated this!)

I'm going to get into make gels in the next few days, but aloe and gel really don't like each other very much. The salts in the aloe vera juice mess with the gelling abilities of the carbomer, so we have to work hard to make sure the gelling occurs.

For now, let's make an aloe vera spray!

What are the essentials for something like this?
  • Aloe vera! We want its healing goodies, so it's the major component in the recipe.
  • Humectants! We want to draw water from the atmosphere to moisturize the burned skin, so I'm including sodium lactate and honeyquat, but you could include hydrovance. I wouldn't suggest glycerin as we're going for non-sticky but you can use if it's your favourite!
  • Film forming! Panthenol is great at healing burns, so we're using it in a large amount, and it acts as a humectant and film former. And we'll include hydrolyzed protein for the film forming as well.
  • Moisturizing! We want to moisturize without occluding the skin, so we'll include hydrolyzed proteins as both film formers and moisturizers.
  • Conditioning! Honeyquat or condition-eze 7 are cationic polymers that will be substantive to skin, let's include that as a moisturizer and conditioner.
(What's with all the exclamation marks? I guess I'm excited today!)

The one down side is that this is a spray and not a gel or lotion, so you will need to apply it more frequently.

87% aloe vera liquid
2% sodium lactate

3% honeyquat
5% panthenol
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% preservative (I use Liquid Germall Plus)

Heat and hold the water phase for 20 minutes at 70C. (You can heat and hold this in a container with a very small opening so you don't lose a lot to condensation!) Remove from your double boiler and allow to cool to 45C. Then add the cool down phase, including the essential oils, if you wish. Package in a spray bottle and use as you wish. (Keep it in the fridge if you want an extra cooling sensation).

As a note, you could include some lovely essential oils in here like lavender. Just remember oils need emulsifying, so you'll want to include equal parts essential oil to polysorbate 20 - don't go over 1% of each. And you can substitute some lavender hydrosol for the aloe vera if you want the lovely qualities of the lavender without adding oils.

I think it's gel time...let's get gooey!

I'm trying to finish some math work and write a grant proposal for Thursday morning, so how about Friday for gels?


Darcy said...

I'd pay for your supplier list.
Of, if you refuse to charge for one, then as you have time, make your ingredient links to a supplier that sells that ingredient.

I'm looking for a supplier of steralkonium chloride as well.

SwiftCraftyMonkey said...

If you look on the right hand side of the blog, I have some of my favourite local suppliers listed. I try to source most of my ingredients locally as I try to shop local when I can and because the shipping and duties from the States make some items far too expensive.

I get my cetrimonium chloride (cetac) from the Personal Formulator and I occasionally buy from The Herbarie (I'd like to get more from them, but the minimum order amount and shipping kill me!) And I've recently ordered mineral make up supplies from TKB Trading.

And, of course, I love Brambleberry. I try to visit Otion in Bellingham when I can.

I don't know of a supplier for steralkonium chloride - I usually use it in BTMS format. (I did check The Personal Formulator and and neither carry it.)