Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Solid conditioner bar - formulating!

I had planned to make up a post for the solid shaving bar for today, but I realized I hadn't posted the solid conditioner bar recipe while I was on my honeymoon...so I'm posting part 1 today, part 2 on Thursday, and the solid shaving bar modification on Friday.

And I'm posting this picture because I loved our cake, I enjoy posting my wedding pictures, and we both use the solid conditioner bar!

I do love the solid conditioner bar. It's great for my waist length, coarse, frizzy, oily-prone hair. It fits nicely into my toiletry bag, and takes up less space as I use it. (It was fabulous on my honeymoon road trip, but make sure you have a nice solid case for it or it will go squish when it is wet and in your bag!)

What do we need to know about the solid conditioner bar to formulate it well? The first thing...it is solid. The secondary thing is that it contains all of the conditioning goodness of a liquid conditioner without the water. So we're going to use all those great ingredients that make our conditioners lovely - panthenol, silicones, hydrolyzed proteins, fragrance or essential oils. So really, all it's missing is the water.

(I feel a bit like Blackadder...ye must know two things about the wise woman. First, she is a woman. Second...she is wise? So you've met her then?)

We know we need our conditioning agents - Incroquat BTMS, Incroquat CR, and cationic polymers - but how will we make them solid? BTMS, of course. It's naturally in a waxy, pellet-y shape, so when we melt it and don't add water, it will make a great solid conditioner. It will also act as the emulsifier for this bar, so it's two great things in one!

Because it's an emulsifier, we can add oils and butters! Yay!

Butters are great solidifiers as well. We'll want something a little harder than shea butter, so cocoa butter is your best choice here. You can mix it up a bit with some various butters and cocoa butter. You're going to get the solidity you seek without the dragginess we could get from other ingredients. I like to use orange butter in this creation for my oily hair, but you can use shea butter or avocado butter - great for dandruff prone hair - in place of up to half the cocoa butter. You can add oils as well - add up to 5% your oils of choice (shea oil, camellia, sea buckthorn are great choices!)

What else makes things solid?
  • Beeswax - we do not want that kind of drag in our hair!
  • Stearic acid - a good thickener, but not good enough
  • Cetyl alcohol - two good things in one. It will work to boost the conditioning power and make the bar harder. So cetyl alcohol it will be.
Another aside...If you have really dry or treated hair, this probably isn't the product for you. If you have oily or normal hair, you're going to love this. Why? Because the conditioner bar doesn't offer intense conditioning, it doesn't deposit a ton of conditioner on your hair, so if you are in the market for light conditioning with goodies, this is the creation for you!

Sorry to leave you hanging like this, but I have to get some math homework done before I leave for work...so join me Thursday for the actual formulation for this recipe!


Christine said...

Hiya Susan, Boy was just wondering.....is there anything you can't do?????? lol. Maybe you could give us a lesson in fitting in a million things in one day! Just showed my other half your blog and he couldn't believe how talented you were. Had to get him off the puter very quickly as he turned to me and said "Well at least you can cook!" He'll be eating cereal this morning....cheeky thing!

SwiftCraftyMonkey said...

I can't play rugby (or any sports for that matter) as I am a huge physical klutz! I have a scar on my elbow from a belly dancing accident, which I got in the first three minutes of the class!

For some reason, I have become an early bird, and I'm up at 5:00 or 6:00 every morning, which gives me loads of time to get things done before the phone starts ringing or other people need me! I use that time to get things done, because when I get home from work - well, I'm done for the night (except for playing bass in Rock Band - I'm so addicted)!

Ironically, I'm out of conditioner bars and won't have time to make them until the weekend!

Hope your hubby enjoys his cereal (and I always love me some home cooking...hint hint...ha ha ha!)

Christine said...

Hey Susan,I just wanted to mention each time I go past the picture of you and hubby together I can't help but smile coz you two look so good together......Oh and I love the fact you can't do everything by the way! lol and hubby didn't get breakfast at all that day......
he did however have a bewwwtiful dinner.

Anonymous said...

Hey Susan!!
Just curious, I have made some of these conditioner bars and if they are left out for a while (I'm talking like a month or so) they start to develop an ashy white sort of crust....is there any way to avoid that? What could be causing that?
Kaitlin Doerfler

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kaitlin. Did you follow the recipe exactly as I have written it? If not, please send me your recipe and process. I've never heard of this before!

Anonymous said...

Hello! I was wondering how to make a solid conditioner using water. I found a solid conditioner that uses water on etsy, and I was interested how the creators of the bar used water. Here's the ingredients:
filtered water, glycerin, shea butter, cocoa butter, sweet almond oil, grapefruit seed extract, orange peel oil, lemon peel oil, tangerine peel oil, lime oil, ginger root extract, tangerine peel oil, amber, chrysanthemum extract, damask rose flower water, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, cetearyl alcohol, stearalkonium chloride, scented
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your original recipe, since it was the only one I could find.
Ana C.

Anonymous said...

Never mind, I saw the text on the sidebar of your blog about not having the time to formulate recipes, and the duplicating products posts. I'll just create different formulations with your resources, which I am quite thankful for. My apologies for not reading that.
Ana C.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ana. I analyzed this product's ingredient list today in a post. Check it out! The short answer is that this can't make a solid conditioner.

Crazy cavy lady's blogg said...

Hi Susan! I live in Sweden and I can only get my hands on stearamidopropyl dimethylamine on this side of the Atlantic, it's an emulsifier for conditioners. Have you ever tried this ingredient? Do you think it will work as a substitute for BTMS in solid conditioner bars?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Crazy cavy! I haven't used this ingredient before - it's on my list to buy, but I have to use what I have first! - but I say give it a try! Make a 100 gram or even 50 gram batch and see how it goes. And please report back and let us know your recipe and how it worked!