So we know what a scrub bar is...what do we need to include in it?
Scrubbing action - that's obvious. You can use salt or sugar for your body, pumice for your feet. I've tried loofah. I wasn't impressed by it. You could use jojoba beads as well. I don't suggest clay beads as they will melt. Sugar is a great choice, but it can melt in the heat of the recipe, so consider salt. Although do not use salt after shaving - it will sting and you will curse my name as you feel the burn!
Moisturizing - We want something really moisturizing that will stay on our skin after we rinse. We're going to use oils for this one. I love olive oil - a beautiful oil full of phytosterols and other good things, and a humectant. Or include other oils you love. Sunflower is a lovely moisturizer and rice bran oil is full of Vitamin E. Let's blend!
Solidness - We need the bar to retain its shape and stay solid in the shower. Butters and waxes are a great way to get the moisturizing and emolliency and still have a solid shape. Waxes can drag, so we only want a bit and I'd leave it out of the body care version. I'm thinking 2% should do it. I'm going to go for my solidness through cocoa butter (about 50%), mango butter (about 20%), and cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (about 3%).
A note on butters - cocoa butter is hardness 10 on a scale from 1 to 10, so we need a lot of it. The other butters - mango, shea, aloe - tend to be less hard. If you want to add shea butter, then do it at 20% and keep the cocoa butter at 50%. For aloe butter, the same thing. If you like something else I haven't listed here, then try it at 20% first - it may be too hard, so you can reduce your cocoa butter and increase your soft butters.
Humectants - We love our humectants, and we want something that's going to be lovely after we leave the shower. We can't use anything water soluble here, so glycerin is right out, but something like sodium lactate is going to help harden the bar and offer humectant-y qualities, so let's use that.
Conditioning - We love our conditioning agents around here, so we're going to include something substantive.
Emulsifying - We want the water and the oils to mix, so we're going to need an emulsifier...BTMS will be both substantive and emulsifying, so let's use that one. (You can use Polawax or e-wax here, but like Alton Brown, I'm not a fan of unitaskers!). I'm thinking 4% because I have some silicones and oils in here.
Glide and slip - We don't want to be dragging this over our bodies, so I'm going to suggest 2% dimethicone, 2% cyclomethicone. Both offer slip and glide, and dimethicone acts as a film former. Never a bad thing.
Fragrance - 1% fragrance to pick you up in the morning or calm you down at night. (Something like Lemon Curd, Hello Sweet Thang, or Jewelled Citrus would be awesome. Can you tell I'm a citrus in the morning kind of girl?) Use essential oils at safe levels.
All right! We have a recipe. Let's formulate!
SOLID SCRUB BAR FOR THE BODY
49% cocoa butter
20% mango, shea or other butter
3% cetyl alcohol
4% Incroquat BTMS
2% wax of choice - beeswax, soy wax, etc. For candellia wax, please use 1% as it is very hard.
3% sodium lactate
12% oils - sunflower, rice bran, olive oil at 4% each
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E (if you are using oils with less than 6 months' shelf life)
1% Phenonip (preservative)
1% Phenonip (preservative)
Add up to 100% sugar, salt, or beads. It really is your preference.
As an aside...the amazing Apres Glow Bar on the Dish uses baking soda. You can try this - add 80% exfoliant with 20% baking soda. It feels really nice.
Melt everything except the silicones, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E in a heat proof container in a double boiler until all the ingredients are well melted. Remove from the heat and add the silicones, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E. Add your exfoliant and mix well. Then pour into a mold and put in the fridge or freezer until set. Let sit for 24 hours before using.
If you are going to add colours to this, make sure they are oil soluble - water soluble colours are going to sit there in tiny droplets and look really weird.
Join me on Sunday for modifying this for your feet!