Thursday, April 9, 2009

Lotion: Adding the additives!

If you read this when first posted, you probably realized I had not included any of the new exciting ingredients from the speciality ingredients post! I guess the painkillers from the knee injury are making my brain woozy!

So let's tweak our original recipe to include these exciting new ingredients! My changes are in green (as usual!)

WATER PHASE - you can use 78% water if you don't have the hydrosols and aloe vera
34.5% water (I've removed 2% to make way for other ingredients below)
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (lavender)
2% humectant of choice (I'm using sodium lactate)
5% water soluble calendula oil
3% honeyquat (cationic polymer, great for skin!)

8% oils - I'm going to use squalane (4%), evening primrose (2%), hempseed (2%)
*Note: I could include 2% calendula oil here if I hadn't put the water soluble calendula into the water phase*
4% emulsifier - e-wax, Polawax, or BTMS (or your own emulsification system!)
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol is the best choice here.

0.5% to 1% preservative
3% Multifruit BSC or Phytofruit extract
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
0.5% chamomile extract (for soothing)
0.5% honeysuckle extract (for acne)
1% Vitamin E - using this for the oils and for the effects it will have on my skin

If you are adding water soluble ingredients, remove some of the water, aloe vera, or hydrosols from the water phase. You'll notice I've reduced the water to compensate for the increase in the cool down phase!

Feel free to change the oils to those of your choice, but changing the amounts will mess up the emulsifier. The emulsifier is higher than that which is required, but I've done that to compensate for the addition of the Vitamin E or essential oils you'd like to include.

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (Leave out about 1 tbsp of heated water and mix it with your powdered extracts in a shot glass.)

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C. Add the preservative, hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, extract, and essential oils and mix well with the hand mixer or blender. Let cool.

6. Pour the mixture into a bottle - one with a treatment pump, preferably - and let sit until completely cooled.


Anonymous said...

this is the best description on how to make a moisturiser i've ever seen!!! can you tell me where i'd look to get the ingredients?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Thank you for kind words. I'm not sure where you live, but if you look to the right hand side of the page, under frequently asked questions, you'll see some posts on where to get supplies in various parts of the world. There's such to be something near you!

Anonymous said...

Susan, I can't thank you enough for all the superbly detailed information about making lotions/creams/serums/etc!!! I tried and failed miserably on my own until I stumbled across your site. Being a lover of chemistry, myself, I didn't see how to pair it with cosmetics until now. Also, thank you for including information about how and when to add more goodies into the formula! You are such a blessing! Thank you!!!

Crystle said...

Hi, Susan, thank you for these posts. I am NEW to lotion making-mostly I do oil, water and emulsifying wax. And I have grown used to using teaspoons, and ounces. I don't understand how to use the percentages way. Of course, it seems way more precise. Do you have a tutorial on how to convert or interpret percentages when formulating a lotion. Please help. I tried sounding smart in this comment. Lol

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Crystale! Check out the FAQ for the tutorials you seek.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Crystle! Please see today's Weekend Wonderings for more information.

Mitty me said...

Hi! Susan, thanks for your post. I'm trying to formulate a body lotion and I wish to add in some additives that are in powder form. Can I subtract the percentage from the water phase or just add them in like so they won't interfere with the 100%? Thanks in advance

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Mitty me! It depends on what you're adding, but for the most part, yes. If you're adding 0.5% powdered chamomile extract, you'd subtract 0.5% from the water amount so the formula always totals 100%. If you're adding 4% niacinamide, subtract 4% from the water amount, and so on. Hope this helps!