Friday, March 27, 2009

Make-up remover: Oil based remover

So you want to make an oil based remover. What are our goals?
  • Something with glide
  • Something cleansing
  • Something emollient
Fractionated coconut oil and shea oil are great glidy oils. Sunflower, safflower, soy bean - again, good glide. Avocado, hazelnut and grapeseed are "dry" oils, and not great with the glide, so save those for another formulation.

Castor oil is a great cleanser, so we are going to use this as the base of our remover.

Pretty much any oil is going to be a good emollient, but I like sunflower, soy bean, olive oil, and rice bran oils for my moisturizing bases, so let's use one of those.

Having said all of this, I think a combination of light oils is the best choice for an oil-based make up remover as we really don't want a ton of oils left behind on our eye lashes!

50% castor oil
20% fractionated coconut oil
20% sunflower or safflower oil or shea oil
9% polysorbate 80
1% Vitamin E

Why are we including polysorbate 80 into something without water? Isn't this an emulsifier? Yes, it is. But it's also a non-ionic surfactant with some basic cleaning power. If we add this to the mixture, it will act as a surfactant to remove your make-up, and it won't leave your eyes or face all greasy afterwards.

Mix together the castor oil and fractionated coconut oil. Mix your poly 80 and sunflower/safflower/shea oil and add to the container. Add 1% Vitamin E. Mix well. Pour into bottle. Rejoice!


andreja said...

Hello! As a chemist who recently ventured into making bath and body products, I just love your blog. I made few things already also with help of your previous posts. Now my sister wants me to make her a make up remover. So, I was looking at this one oil based remover. Do you think it's okay to use polawax instead of polysorbate 80? How about FCO, can I use something else? I have shea butter, but I guess I can't use that instead of FCO or shea oil, right?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

A chemist? So jealous! You can use any other oil for the oils I use in this recipe - those are just suggested 'cause I like them. As for shea butter vs. shea oil - I wouldn't do it! It will make the recipe a body butter rather than a make-up remover! As for using Polawax, it will make the remover very thick and probably annoying to use!

If you have Polawax and various oils, why not try making a make-up remover lotion? You could try a very light lotion - find it here - and use that as a make-up remover? Or you could try the oil cleansing method I mention in the castor oil post.

Thanks for your kind words! Making your own stuff is very addicting - you can't say I didn't warn you!

andreja said...

Wow, you are fast! Thanks! Don't be jealous, even though I am a chemist, I still have to learn about that stuff. I bet you are more of a chemist in bath and body department than I am. ;-)
I've tried OCM but I gave up as my skin broke out everytime I've used it. I used sunflower and castor oil. Maybe I should've increased the amount of castor oil?
Thanks for the lotion make up remover idea. I think I will try that.
Your warning came too late. I am already addicted. lol

Bh Kk said...

Hi, would PEG-­‐7 olivate achieve the same results in this recipe as Polysorbate 80?
Can we substitute castor oil with any other oil?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Bh KK! Try it and see how you like it! And you can substitute whatever oils you want for other ones, but it will change the skin feel and possibly the function of the product! Let us know how it turns out!

Rocio GarcĂ­a said...

Hi dear Susan:

I have a quetion, Can I replace castor oil for oil olive?

Thanks for your help

My best regards

bevcapil said...

I only have poly 20 can I use that instead of poly 80 thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Take a look at the entry on polysorbates and see if they are interchangeable with the ingredients you are using. Or give it a try in a small batch and see what you think!!