Thursday, March 26, 2009

Make up-remover: Basics & surfactant based remover

There are four ways to make a make-up remover, so this is going to use all the stuff you've learned so far....

Surfactant based - this will be a foaming make up remover composed of about 10% surfactants, a few goodies, preservative, and water. It is vital the pH will cause no more tears, so LSB or BSB will be our primary surfactant.

Oil based - this will be an all oil based formula composed entirely of oils.

Water based - this will be a water based formula composed of water, water soluble oils, goodies like panthenol and aloe vera, and preservative.

Lotion based - this will be a cold cream like formula (we aren't going to be going over these for quite some time).

How to choose? What do you want? What kind of cosmetics do you wear?

If you use a lot of water proof cosmetics - choose a surfactant, oil, or lotion based remover.
If you hate the feeling of oil on your eye lashes - choose a surfactant or water based remover.
If you are concerned about stinging your eyes - choose an oil, lotion, or water based remover

Now, how do we formulate this?

So what are we looking for in a make-up remover...
Something with glide - you do not want to have to pull on your tender eye area.
Something cleansing - you want the make up off!
Something emollient - you don't want that tight feeling afterwards.

You are going to use everything you learned in the surfactant post to formulate your remover.

We need low foam, low lather, and pH balanced. We want it mild. We want it moisturizing.

Surfactant choices:
  • BSB - the pH is perfect for no more tears. It's mild, and it's thick. (Use any "baby blend" as a substitute).
  • Coco betaine - I want it to be mild. This is a good foamer, but we'll take care of that with the oils.
Additive choices:
  • Aloe vera - soothing
  • Lavender or calendula water soluble - soothing
  • Crothix - anti-irritant and thickening
  • Conditioning polymer - (polyquat 7, polyquat 10, honeyquat) - conditioning, humectant-y
  • Oils - oils will add emolliency and reduce the lather. Ideally you'll use a water soluble oil (olive oil or soy are great!). If not, then use an emollient oil like sunflower or olive oil and add...
  • Polysorbate 80 - an emulsifier for oils in surfactant systems. Use at 1:1 ratio with your oils.
  • Protein - conditioning
  • Preservative - gotta have this!
  • Water - of course, but you could do all aloe vera and hydrosols if you wanted
Okay, so what we do have? We're making a shampoo for our eyes (yeah, that sounds weird, doesn't it?) but we are going to use our surfactants in really really low amounts. You will want to rinse this off after using...

80% water based ingredients - aloe vera, hydrosols, water
5% BSB
2% coco betaine
3% conditioning polymer
3% oils of choice - I'd suggest camellia oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, fractionated coconut oil, shea oil
3% polysorbate 80 - if you are using water soluble oils, leave this out, and add more water based ingredients.
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% crothix
0.5% to 1% preservative

Heat your water, surfactants, and conditioning polymer in a heat proof container in a double boiler, and mix until well blended. Remove from the double boiler. Now mix your oil and polysorbate 80 together, then pour into the mixture. (If you are using water soluble oils, heat with the other ingredients in the double boiler). When the mixture comes to 45C or lower, add the protein and preservative. Let cool completely. Add 1% Crothix. If you like the consistency, bottle. If you want it thicker, add 0.5% Crothix. Add up to 0.5% more for a total of 2%. Put in a disc or turret cap bottle and use!

You will want to rinse this off after using. And if you find this too foamy for your liking, take the BSB to 2% and add 3% more hydrosols or water.


Maria said...

Can you suggest a preservative for this? I have optiphen and suttocide on hand. Also, can glycerin be subbed for the polymer/honeyquat?

Also, when you say shea oil--do you mean shea butter or do they actually change it over to an oil product for use in these formulas?

Thank you,

Maria said...

I made a modified version of the eye wash--LOVE it. Thanks for posting the basic structure!

Maria said...

Second try with this I sub'd in: Glyceryl Caprylate Caprate for the Crothix because the literature said it was a good substitute. At 2 percent there is NO sign of thickening and I mean NO sign. It made the recipe cloudy, but no thickening. Do I need to add salt for it to work? Or should I just use Crothix???

Here's the ingredients at the percentages (I left some things out and upped the water):

88% water
2% DLS (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate)
2% coco betaine
3% honeyquat

2% hydrolyzed protein (wheat)

2% Glyceryl Caprylate Caprate
1% optiphen ND

Any idea why it didn't thicken? I have a question in to the supplier, and supposedly I can go up to 4 percent, but at 2 percent there's absolutely no thickening and it's been sitting for 5 hours now...


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Maria. You can't really thicken DLS well. And you don't have enough surfactant at 4% to be thickened. GCC doesn't thicken water, nor does Crothix, and this product is mostly water.

Maria said...

Thank you for that info. The place where I bought the GCC provided some information, but not enough for me to do other than "Guess" that.

I ended up using carbomer 940 in with the water (basically carbomer gel). That helped and it also keeps guar conditioner and other ingredients in suspension.

I appreciate you letting me know about the Crothix not thickening as it keeps me from buying and trying yet another product.

Thanks for all you help.