Sunday, December 31, 2017

A look back at 2017: My new favourite ingredients (part one)

As I mentioned in yesterday's post, I've more than 400 new ingredients - not including micas, colourants, glitters, fragrance oils, or essential iols - including so many new surfactants, surfactant thickeners, cold lotion emulsifiers, conditioners, cationic polymers, preservatives, humectants, silicones, esters, oils, butters, extracts & hydrosols, proteins, cosmeceuticals & complexes, emulsifiers, and more, some of which I have yet to inventory! I've been able to afford these things and the bins in which to store them thanks to the subscribers over on my Patreon page.

Here are a few new ingredients I enjoyed this year!

New favourite fragrance: It's a tie at the moment between Blood Orange & Goji Berry or Manchurian Dragon from Windy Point Soap. I'm also in love with lemongrass verbena (fragrance oil) and Charleston Sweet Tea from Voyageur Soap & Candle. 

New favourite conditioning ingredient: I am having such a love affair with Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI: Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Cetearyl Alcohol), a green, ECOcert conditioner that makes really soft, light, conditioners that don't weigh my hair down. It's a neat, albeit picky, substitute for Incroquat BTMS-50 or Rita BTMS-225 that needs to have the pH altered to work as a positively charged or cationic ingredient.

I think this might be the best cationic or positively charged ingredient I've found for fine hair. In the past, I've used one of the cationic polymers, like Honeyquat or polyquaternium 7, to create light conditioners, but this is my new go-to for that hair type now.

Related posts:
Do you need to measure the pH of your products? 

New favourite butter: That's a hard one, but I think I'm really enjoying cupuacu butter the most. It's a bit like mango butter, but not as dry feeling, and a bit like cocoa butter, but less stiff. It can hold a lot of water, which means it can be good for anhydrous products if you wanted to add a titch of glycerin or aloe vera.

I'll be writing part two shortly, but for now - what were your favourite new ingredients of the year?



4 comments:

tamicet said...

I'd have to say I'm in love with the synergistic effect Niacinamide and n-Acetyl Glucosamine have together in my facial lotion for pigmentation and scars in general and I also love Cera Bellina for the wonderful creamy gel-like texture it creates for lip gloss.

JennaTheFirst said...

First year breaking free from bath bombs so all the things my budget can allow O.O

Kayak Kat said...

Two new for me ingredients from this year that are definite keepers are Penstia Powder and Foaming Oats Surfactant. Penstia Powder provides a luxurious silky skin feel to lotions. The Foaming Oats Surfactant made a lovely gentle shampoo. I am looking forward to testing the Foaming Oats in a facial cleanser.

Erin Storm said...

I have to agree with the Charleston Sweet Tea fragrance. I only got a small bottle when I first saw it, and I HAD to get a large bottle on my next order!

I got some new ingredients that I haven't gotten a chance to play with yet, but I'm really looking forward to trying everything I ordered from Windy Point - Olivem 300, Aristoflex AVC, Sea Kelp Bioferment, Niacinamide, Centrimonium Chloride, Simulsol 165, and RM-2051 Emulsifier & Thickener.